Sta-loks question

[seawolf]

David,
When installing the cone, I made sure that the proper amount of wire was extending through the cone and used a drop of super glue on the cone and wire to hold it all in place.
I am pretty confident that the cone has not slipped up, but I do not have xray vision.
I would appreciate some more comments regarding the possibilities, but in the end, I think my best bet is to back off the tension on the rig and see if I can take up on any of the fittings a bit, I know Brion, in his instructions state no need to crank on the fitting hard, just bring the fitting home and snug a bit, and this is what I did.
Thanks for your reply.
Bob

[seawolf]

Hello all,
As usual, I think of something after I finish my thread.
Since when installing the fittings, you turn the eye end of the fitting while holding the cylinder end, my option of loosening the rig and trying to tighten the fitting by turning the cylinder, while the eye fitting is still connected may not be valid,
The eye end may need to be completely disconnected and turned while holding the cylinder as in the assembly instructions.
Is this the proper assumption?
Thanks again in advance for your thoughts on this.
Bob

[Brian Duff]

IIRC 2 or 3 threads will show when done right. Norseman and Hayn will be closed all the way.

[seawolf]

Brian,

Regarding the first thread, do you agree that the stays or shrouds should be loosened before trying to cinch up on the cylinder of a previously installed sta-lok?
Or can you try and cinch up a thread or so on the sta-lok fitting under tuned tension?
Thanks for the help, and fair winds.
Bob

[Ian McColgin]

I don't see how it's even possible to get the bit sticking out of the cone right if you set this up under tension and I think that just as having too much sticking out could prevent the staylock from setting down, having too little could jam the cone up in a way that also prevents screwing down.

I almost always hold the eye or jaw firmly while screwing the barrel in - keeps the wire from jumping about - and have set a lower fitting on a stay that was hung at the top and then cut to fit (I can't calculate stuff as accuratly as Brion) but not attached yet.

Get some new cones, take the fitting apart and redo it. You may have to lop off an inch or so of wire to get a clean start so get some toggles or longer turnbuckles if needed.

G'luck

[seawolf]

Ian,

That is exactly how I set up all my stalok fittings, by following Brion's instructions to a tee.
I was very confident in my work until a rigger passing by my boat glanced at a fitting and stated that he thought to many threads were showing.
That is why I started this thread. Brian Duff thought a properly installed stalok would still show 2 or 3 threads on the cylinder and that is what I have,
I will look over all fittings real good, and if I find any that I feel needs attention, I will take the fitting off and go from there.
Thanks for the advise.
Fair winds to all.
Bob

[Brion Toss]

Hi all,
I've been away on vacation; sorry not to have gotten back to you sooner.
First, you should to disconnect the Sta-Lok from the turnbuckle in order to disassemble it, if only for ease.
Next, it doesn't hurt to disassemble occasionally, just to make sure no water is getting in and corroding things. But take care not to unbalance the rig while doing this. With a continuous rig, slack the backstay first, to keep compression from bending or buckling the partially unsupported mast, then work on pairs of shrouds (on opposite sides of the boat), on a calm day.
I trust that you tightened your terminals enough to bend the cover yarns over the wedge. If you did that, and had the right amount of core showing, and if the core was flush with the cover yarns when you started (inferior wire will often be unbalanced, with a withdrawn core), then all is well. From previous conversations with you, it is most likely that you did everything fine, and that rigger is off-base.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[seawolf]

Brion,
During installation I made sure all wires were formed nicely and all looked as per your installation DVD. So I am confident with the job.

As for routine check up for water intrusion, is it possible to disassemble the fitting and reassemble with same cone and former as long as all looks well?

Using silicone and locktite once again of coarse, during re-assembly.
Hope you had a nice holiday.
Fair winds.
Bob

[Brion Toss]

Hi again,
No need to replace parts after inspection, or after inverting the wires to equalize corrosion. You can usually reuse the formers when replacing the wires, unless the original ends were cut sloppily, and gouged the formers. The reason that you replace the wedges when putting in new wire is that they are relatively fragile,and get too mashed to re-use.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[edzacko]

.....the fitting may have backed

I just experienced this sort of thing a few months back. I was having a conversation with someone and standing at eye level with his rig. As I went aboard I noticed that he had "a lot more threads" visible than I thought was normal(StaLok) I did not know this guy well and hey, what do I know?

A few minutes later as he was speaking to me and in the middle of a sentence there was a loud bang as that same eye popped apart. It was at his eye level and it was only because he was looking at me when it popped that he did not lose his eye---he did get a nasty bump on his cheek.

We re-assembled the eye and it screwed all the way in with very little thread showing.

The eye was attached to a hydraulic tensioner and we noticed that every time he pumped that tensioner, the piston would rotate---this evidently --over time--caused that eye to gradually unscrew.

It does happen.
Regular inspections help.
Ed Zacko