Sta-loks question
 

Hello all,
A rigger came by my boat and was looking at my sta-lok installation from a while back.
He thought that there were to many threads showing on the fittings, and that the fitting may have backed out during adjustment of the turnbuckles, and to watch out for that situation,
I do not believe this is the case, but need to make sure.
The fittings were tightened but not cranked on when I installed them.

My questions are:
1 How many threads usually show after a properly fitted terminal? (this may be a poor way to look at it, and I will not use this information to determine correctness. just curious)

2 Is it possible to tighten the sta-lok terminal while rig is tuned, or is it best to de-tune the rig and then try to cinch up on the terminal?

3 If I am able to cinch up a bit, it may be assumed that the terminal did back out a bit while adjusting the rig? Or other causes possible?

Thanks for the advise in advance.
Fair winds.
Bob

sta-lok
 

Hi,
I have seen sta-loks like yours (do not appear to be in enough). The most common reason for this is that during assembly the cone is pushed too far up the wire leaving long ends. This extra wire will stop the fitting closing up enough (but what is enough?)
Over to you and others with what you should do and if yours is done up enough. David

sta-loks
 

David,
When installing the cone, I made sure that the proper amount of wire was extending through the cone and used a drop of super glue on the cone and wire to hold it all in place.
I am pretty confident that the cone has not slipped up, but I do not have xray vision.
I would appreciate some more comments regarding the possibilities, but in the end, I think my best bet is to back off the tension on the rig and see if I can take up on any of the fittings a bit, I know Brion, in his instructions state no need to crank on the fitting hard, just bring the fitting home and snug a bit, and this is what I did.
Thanks for your reply.
Bob

sta-loks, another comment
 

Hello all,
As usual, I think of something after I finish my thread.
Since when installing the fittings, you turn the eye end of the fitting while holding the cylinder end, my option of loosening the rig and trying to tighten the fitting by turning the cylinder, while the eye fitting is still connected may not be valid,
The eye end may need to be completely disconnected and turned while holding the cylinder as in the assembly instructions.
Is this the proper assumption?
Thanks again in advance for your thoughts on this.
Bob

IIRC 2 or 3 threads will show when done right. Norseman and Hayn will be closed all the way.

sta-loks
 

Brian,

Regarding the first thread, do you agree that the stays or shrouds should be loosened before trying to cinch up on the cylinder of a previously installed sta-lok?
Or can you try and cinch up a thread or so on the sta-lok fitting under tuned tension?
Thanks for the help, and fair winds.
Bob

I don't see how it's even possible to get the bit sticking out of the cone right if you set this up under tension and I think that just as having too much sticking out could prevent the staylock from setting down, having too little could jam the cone up in a way that also prevents screwing down.

I almost always hold the eye or jaw firmly while screwing the barrel in - keeps the wire from jumping about - and have set a lower fitting on a stay that was hung at the top and then cut to fit (I can't calculate stuff as accuratly as Brion) but not attached yet.

Get some new cones, take the fitting apart and redo it. You may have to lop off an inch or so of wire to get a clean start so get some toggles or longer turnbuckles if needed.

G'luck

sta-loks
 

Ian,

That is exactly how I set up all my stalok fittings, by following Brion's instructions to a tee.
I was very confident in my work until a rigger passing by my boat glanced at a fitting and stated that he thought to many threads were showing.
That is why I started this thread. Brian Duff thought a properly installed stalok would still show 2 or 3 threads on the cylinder and that is what I have,
I will look over all fittings real good, and if I find any that I feel needs attention, I will take the fitting off and go from there.
Thanks for the advise.
Fair winds to all.
Bob

Correct
 

Hi all,
I've been away on vacation; sorry not to have gotten back to you sooner.
First, you should to disconnect the Sta-Lok from the turnbuckle in order to disassemble it, if only for ease.
Next, it doesn't hurt to disassemble occasionally, just to make sure no water is getting in and corroding things. But take care not to unbalance the rig while doing this. With a continuous rig, slack the backstay first, to keep compression from bending or buckling the partially unsupported mast, then work on pairs of shrouds (on opposite sides of the boat), on a calm day.
I trust that you tightened your terminals enough to bend the cover yarns over the wedge. If you did that, and had the right amount of core showing, and if the core was flush with the cover yarns when you started (inferior wire will often be unbalanced, with a withdrawn core), then all is well. From previous conversations with you, it is most likely that you did everything fine, and that rigger is off-base.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

Sta-loks
 

Brion,
During installation I made sure all wires were formed nicely and all looked as per your installation DVD. So I am confident with the job.

As for routine check up for water intrusion, is it possible to disassemble the fitting and reassemble with same cone and former as long as all looks well?

Using silicone and locktite once again of coarse, during re-assembly.
Hope you had a nice holiday.
Fair winds.
Bob