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#1
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![]() I have to complete multiple eye splices in Amsteel Blue 7/64" diameter. Is your micro (extra small) wand the correct size and product for this? The application is a hold-down line for a 525 lb cast iron swing keel on a Sirius 21 sailboat. I will not be using thimbles but instead will be using 8mm shackles on either end. The working load is 691 lb, but if the vessel is grounded this line is intended to break sacrificially, therefore allowing the keel to swing up.
Last edited by Lorien : 12-20-2016 at 07:34 AM. |
#2
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![]() I use a wand (medium) on 1/4 Dyneema. I suspect you would have no problem splicing 7/64" with the extra small wand, but for the smaller diameters I've had great luck just using a folded piece of stainless MIG wire.
The folded wire is stiff enough to push up the middle of the braid, small enough to not disturb the braid too much, and you can get the fold bent to a gentle enough curve that it doesn't try to hook strands while you are pushing it into the braid. |
#3
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![]() Thanks for the input. Will try it.
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#4
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![]() While on the boat this summer, I needed to build a whoopie sling to act as an outhaul for a reefed main. I was able to complete the splices in a piece of 7/64" Dyneema using only my pocket knife (which has a marlin spike) and a piece of tie wire.
Single braid Dyneema can be spliced without any particularly special tools. Nice spikes and a good puller like Brion's Splicing wand or the D-Splicer just make the process a bit quicker and easier. |
#5
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![]() I would recommend doing the Samson taper where you remove 1/2 the strands back 21 diameters first. Then you can double over the line in the folded wire and not increase the diameter of the part you are pulling through.
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#6
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![]() I agree with Allen on that point, performing at least half of the taper before pulling the tail does make performing the bury an order of magnitude easier no matter what pulling tool you use.
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