Winch base repair and reef line attachment

[cmking]

Hi,

I have recently acquired a 1978 Alden 44, Puffin. I was out sailing the other day. It was quite windy so I went to put in a reef and in the process ripped a winch off the mast.

Puffin has 4 winches mounted on the mast. Two self tailers on the side and two regular winches on the front and back. The aft winch is mounted below the boom and is in a ideal position for tensioning the reef lines.

I was having problems getting the sail as flat as I thought it should be. In an effort to figure out what was going on, I lead the reef line around the aft winch and then up to one of the self tailers on the side. This way I could crank it a bit, look at what was going on and then crank some more.

Unfortunately, this process must have put some unreasonable loads on the aft winch. As I cranked, the lower bolts pulled right out of the mast and the winch bent upwards towards the boom. I was bummed.

I realize now the reason I couldn't get the sail flat was the way the reef lines are attached to the aft end of the boom. The lines are lead from a cheek block up to the reef cringle and then down to a bowline on the boom. As the line is tensioned, the knot is pulled up to the cringle. Once the knot reaches the sail, that is as tight as it is going to get, which is not tight enough.

So I have two questions, how to repair the mast to reattach the winch and how should the reef lines be properly attached to the mast.

I took the winch of the mast. The existing bolt holes are all stripped out. I was hoping I could rotate the winch and drill and tap new holes but it looks like the previous owners had either mounted different winches on this pad or had to remount this one more than once. There are a lot of holes in this pad. So there is really not a good spot to put the new holes.

One idea I had is to get a aluminum plate about the size and shape of the base of the winch and mount that to the mast. There are no holes in the center of the pad, so the plate could be bolted there. Then winch then could be bolted to the plate. Does this sound reasonable? Is there a better way?

On attaching the reef lines, there are some U shaped brackets mounted on the boom below the reef cringles opposite the cheek blocks. (Sorry I don't know a better name for these things) So I could imagine just leading the lines through these and using a stopper knots. I worry though, that these things can't handle the loads of the reef lines. They don't look that strong to me.

If you have any advice for me, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks
Chris King

[Ian McColgin]

Ahoy Chris,

You don't normally need a winch to tension the reefed foot. Take up on the topping lift a bit. Bring the reef tack down and secure that. Then tension the foot by hand. Once you re-tension the luff and then slack the topping lift, the foot will be fine.

The little fair lead you describe really was meant for the reefing line. If it's set at an angle off vertical, like /, with the holes about in line with the strain when the reef is taken in, then it will surely be strong enough assuming the bolts, screws or rivets were set correctly. If it's taking a side strain, remove or ignore it.

I prefer to take the reef pendant either from the brace post at the back end of the pendant's turning block 'round under the boom and up, or just around the boom as you have it but with a snugger knot. The net pull of the pendant when snugged down should be about 45 degrees or shallower but not so shallow that it goes past bisecting the clew angle. If the turning blocks are right under the reef clews, you'll need to reposition them. If they are too close for the 45 degree but not really under, just secure the bitter end of the clew reefing pendant a bit further back on the boom to net pull about 45 degrees.

On to your mast winches: Given one problem, you may want to check them all.

The winches should be on some sort of pad to insulate them from the mast and to give them a truly flat landing. Sometimes you'll see a folded stainless pad with four or more rivets into the mast on the vertical flanges that attach it to the mast. The winch is bolted to that. Alternatively, you may have a shaped bit of wood or plastic as the pad with the winch bolts tapped right to the mast. With a pad, by the way, the tapped and threaded holes in the mast will be normal to the winch base and thus, excepting the top and bottom holes, not perpendicular to the mast's surface.

From your description, it seems that your winches were attached directly to the mast with no pads. Not good.

The cause of your winch pulling free may be either a very bad pad installation or no pad at all coupled with a little electrolysis weakening the whole. I recommend removal of the other winches and a careful survey.

From your questions, I'm not sure that you have the skills to be sure of what's needed to get this right. Hire a pro to go over it with you as well as to advise on any repairs the mast itself may need.

G'luck

Ian

[Brion Toss]

Oy,
As Ian indicates, the failed winch might be a particularly loud canary in the coal mine. In addition to all other winches, I'd strongly recommend you get a complete rig survey; even if you don't have electrolysis compromising everthing else, simple age and use might have brought the rig to a dangerous place. Please see to this soon.
The repair will indeed require a separate plate, with the winch tapped to that. It might be possible to use existing holes, with larger fasteners, to attach to the mast. But you might also be able to make an extra-large plate, with fasteners well outboard of the existing holes. And I mean well outboard, so you don't get into a "tear along the dotted line" situation.
And contrary to what Ian says, you might want to use the reef winch, just because it's easier. But try marking the clewline, for a do-not-exceed point.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[cmking]

Thanks your comments.

By the way I did have full rig survey done a few months ago. It is generally in very good health.

The winches are mounted on pads that are welded to the mast.