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  #1  
Old 05-06-2006, 07:55 AM
djsailor djsailor is offline
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2
Default When is the time to replace?

HI all,

I own a 22 year old 1984 Hunter that has spend most of its life on the Chesapeak Bay. The standing rigging was replace in 1996 (except for the turnbuckel bodies). I've looked at the turnbuckels that are at deck level and they look OK. I will be going up the mast as soon as I get a new harness (outgrew the one I fit in 22 years ago... ).

When should I replace the standing rigging and the old turnbuckels? The boat has not been sailed much in the last 6 years but I would like to start sailing her more often with my 6 year old daughter from now on .

Thanks,
DJ
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  #2  
Old 05-06-2006, 04:26 PM
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Default Things to look out for.

Here are some solid indicators that some or all the rigging needs replacing:

*Visibly broken strands (running some bronze wool down the wire is an easy way to check for this. The strands of the wool will catch on the edges of the broken wire. Do NOT use steel wool)
*Wire that feels out of round sort of like the way a spiral bound book would feel if you pulled the spiral binding as straight as possible. This could indicate wires broken on the i
inside.
*Cracked aircraft forks or marine eyes or any swaged fitting. A crack on an aircraft fork is common if the lead isn't quite right because of the loads being applied unevenly to the sides of the fittings. look for cracks around the eyes as well as cracks on the swage fittings. These can be VERY small and VERY hard to spot. Look for flowers of rust or lines of rust and then clean them up a bit with scotchbrite and then take a look with a jewelers loop.
*Distended holes at the eyes/forks/toggles/tangs/chainplates. These can indicate excessive loads have been applied or that the clevis pins were undersized for the fitting. If possible (and in most cases it is) match the clevis pins to the fittings being used.
*Cracks in the chainplate. If the chainplates pass through the deck pull them (this can usually be done one at a time with the mast standing) and inspect them COMPLETELY. Severe cracks usually appear at the deckline and are impossible to see either above or below decks. This is most common on saltwater boats but is also a real possibility if the deck is routinely cleaned with bleaches such as soft scrub.

Look for part 2 of this response soon. It's time for my wife's birthday party.
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  #3  
Old 05-07-2006, 11:21 AM
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Default Ok, part two - general things to check

* Make sure all turnbuckles turn freely. Even if they do it's a good idea to apply a little lube in the form of lanocote or tefgel.
* Inspect the bolts at the mast and the tangs (and any other bolt that passes through the exstrusion) and make sure they haven't been overly tightened. This is super-common and really pinches the extrusion. It's also completely unnecessary. Use red loctite, nylon locknuts, spiking the nuts, or best yet - drill and pin with a cotterpin to secure the bolts rather than just tightening the heck out of them
* Inspect the spreader tips for excess corrosion.
* Inspect your roller-furler (if you have one) to make sure everything turns freely and that there are no missing screws, pieces, etc. This includes looking along the length of the foil.
* Make sure there is a toggle on the top end of your forestay. This is very important and frequently done wrong.
*Look for bent or obviously abused clevis pins. This is a strong indicator that things aren't sized appropiately. Don't ever assume that just because it's been one way for a couple of decades and has worked the whole time (or even if it's oem stuff) that it's appropiately sized or set up.
*While you are at the masthead check the sheaves and make sure they turn freely. If you have a halyard restrainer make sure it's located properly and that any moving parts (if it has any) still move.
*Also, if it hasn't been used in years check your running rigging. Do this BEFORE you use a possibly sun-rotted halyard to haul yourself aloft. Tie the ends of the halyard together and reeve them in both directions as far as you can (till the knot hits something) and look at the line carefully. You'll even be able to examine internal halyards this way.
*Also, make sure your winches are in proper working order. This is another to do before putting your life at the mercy of the equipment. As you can imagine, if you are half-way up the mast and the pawls suddenly get stuck in some old grease and the winch can now free-wheel in either direction it may turn into a very bad day. Speaking of which, never trust a snap-shackle to ride up on.
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  #4  
Old 05-07-2006, 01:21 PM
djsailor djsailor is offline
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2
Default Thanks for the good advice!

Appreciate your time.
DJ
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  #5  
Old 05-15-2006, 02:57 PM
Brion Toss Brion Toss is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,180
Default Looking closer

Hello,
I'll just add that Radio Shack (and us) sells a dandy little microscope, with built-in light. 60 to 100 power. Great survey tool. And you might consider our rig inspection DVD, as well as the pertinent section of the "Apprentice".
Fair leads,
Brion Toss
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