Seek advice to simplify rig connections

[benjiwoodboat]

I'd like to simplify the rig on my 28' Bristol Channel Cutter when I redo it in a week or so. I want to order the parts, but want to get it right the first time. Although I prefer the look of Hi-Mod, I'm planning to go Sta-lok top and bottom because I'm re-using the old Sta-lok bottoms, and buying new sta-loks to replace the swages aloft. Seems to make more sense to stick with Sta-lok all around.
Seems like my old rig had alot of extra parts, like double jaw toggles sprinkled in for no reason in some spots but missing in others that it needed it. I'd like to know more about WHY some of these pieces are on my rig, some don't make sense to me... but I'm just using my common sense, no rigging experience.

(A few of rusty looking chainplates have been replaced due to cracking. And the bobstay chainplate was redesigned altogether. And FWIW, three of the swages were cracked, you might notice in the pics.)

1. This is the stays'l stay (inner headstay), which I believe needs a double jaw toggle to allow for the awthwartship pull of the sail on the stay. Can I remove this extender and place a double jaw toggle there instead and is this the right thing to do?



2. This is the jib stay (outer headstay) and the backstay. Is there any reason these double jaw toggles are so long? Is there more potential for failure with a longer toggle? Can I replace them with the shorter ones? And does the backstay even need a double jaw since there is no side-to side load of a sail flying on the backstay. Can I simply go with a fork?



3. This is one of the boomkin stays. Any reason this can't simply be a Sta-Lok fork?



4. This is the bobstay. This might need to be a double jaw, because there might be side loads on it from the anchor rode. Does that make sense, or can this be simplified to a fork as well?




THANKS IN ADVANCE TO ANYONE WHO TAKES THE TIME TO READ THIS AND REPLY !!




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[Robbie.g]

the use of double jawed toggles are sometimes used because a standard toggle swage would not have the reach [too short pin to pin] due to the shape of the tang, This seams to be the case here, although many suppliers make an extended toggle with a pressed in pin, which would be better, i feel.

Regards

[Brian Duff]

Double jaw toggles are available in a variety of lengths to accomodate different masthead and tang designs - 1:you should have a toggle at the top of the inner forestay, but any design will be frustrating because the 'major' toggleing is athwartships, so really the FIRST pin should allow for that direction of toggle, and the second the minor toggling. With you mast tangs thats a tough problem. 2: yes you can use shorter ones, but make sure they still allow for a fair lead for the stay. yes there is probably A REASON they are long, but who knows what that was.... 3: toggle 4: toggle for sure (at lease these two have the major toggle direction at the chainplate)

Keep the toggles at each end of the stays, but you can upgrade to 'eye-toggle' fittings (like the boomkin) - these do not have an additional clevis pin to install - This is nice because it eliminates the risk that the cotter pin 'side' washer gets forgotten, as in your backstay toggle! The boomkin could be forks as there is little chance of that structure moving short of failure, same with the bowsprit but docking accidents and anchor cables with deflect it, probably within the safety margins - but a toggle is the right thing.

Of courese, thats just MY opinion.

Nice carnage shots too, thanks!