Seized Eye

[FunisNodo]

I would like to seize, not at all splice, an eye in 1/2-inch Sta-Set. I would like to see around 60-70 percent of the rope strength maintained. I know that I will need multiple seizings but need more guidance. I also need some help with selecting the size of the seizing twine.

TIA

[Matthew Sebring]

I'll let others help with the technicals but I can't help but wonder what you are doing with it? Just curious what you've got going.

[NickfromWI]

Is is that you don't want a splice, or is it that you don't want to have to DO a splice?

love
nick

ps- Do you have the Riggers Apprentice?

[FunisNodo]

I suppose that in order to help me better, it would be beneficial to know my intended use.

I chose Sta-Set as my rope of choice for it's relatively low stretch and it's availability in a color far from white. I was looking for those qualities because my intended use is as a high line. In this case, high line is an equestrian term - a rope that horses are tied to in the back country, generally tied high above the horses head. It is normally tied very taught between two trees or between a tree and the horse trailer. To protect the bark on the tree(s) a piece of 2-inch nylon webbing is used. I connect the rope (high line) to the webbing by means of a carabiner; thus the desire for an eye. A lead line "connects" the horse to the high line. (My horse associates white rope with electric fence rope or tape so he freaks at white)

My experience with braided rope is rudimentary. I like the look of seizings but, in truth, I do not want to invest in fids or snare-tools at this time. I do not own the Riggers Apprentice but do own Brion's book on knots (Chapmans) and numerous other resources.

[Brion Toss]

Hi there,
You could easily get plenty of strength from seizings, assuming you make them correctly, and especially assuming that you apply them in the correct manner. That is, make the one furthest from the eye first, then apply a little load, so there's no slack between the two legs of the eye, and apply the second one, about 3" from the first. Apply a bit more load and put on the one at the throat. This arrangement should approach 100% efficiency.
On the other hand, the kind of efficiency you say you require (60 to 70%) can be achieved with a Buntline Hitch, or any number of other knots, and this might be preferable, especially if your horse causes the lead to fetch up at one end of the rope or the other; could chafe seizings. I'd consider hitching to a shackle pin, putting a second shackle on the tree webbing, then lashing to the between the shackles for tension. Make sure that the lead carabiner can't hang up on the shackles, or your horse could get stuck at one end.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[FunisNodo]

Thanks so much. For a bit of clarity, the lead line usually attaches to the high line with a specialty device, or knot, that doesn't allow the lead rope to move along the high line. Because these large animals, with brains the size of a tennis ball, will be sure to tangle themselves around other horses on the highline, the tree, a bush, etc. I believe I would like to stay away from knots - mainly just for the looks. Besides, this will increase my experience base; learn something new.

What size seizing twine should I use for the 1/2-inch Stat-Set?

Also, and I already know Brion's response, but is the Rigger's Apprentice worth having in my library? I am an aficionado of knots, rope work, rigging (in a very broad sense) and such. Possibly only stayed away from it because of the price.

[Renoir]

I have several books relating to knots, etc. If I could keep only one it would be my Rigger's Apprentice. Although this reads like I'm seriously kissing butt there are several good reasons for this evaluation.

Most rigging and knot books are dry, drrrry, dryyyy! You will notice a salting with a sense of humor. As a result you will find yourself reading sections that ostensibly you might have no real interest other than the good read. Later you might find that you remember something useful that otherwise you wouldn't know.

The book has references to applications other than sailing (such as yours). Interesting it is to read about circus and arborist applications, for instance.

Expensive? Even in '70 when I was in college a textbook was pushing a hundred bucks. If this isn't as good or better (because it is a keeper) than one of those textbooks I'll put a half-hitch in my Irish pennant!

[smiling.shramana]

I would second that you should have Riggers Apprentice. It contains a wealth of information that expands beyond boats. I like it so well and use it so often that I recently purchased a second copy for safe keeping. The original copy travels with me, to and from the boat, and has seen quite some wear. Definitely worth adding to your library.
Mike