securing wire rope at right angles

[njl]

Thanks for replying. That's a nice solution. I'll try it out.

I'm still curious if someone know of a good procedure for putting a square lashing on wire rope.

[Ian McColgin]

It would help to know your purpose. Is it, for example, to secure a lifeline passing a shroud? If so, are you looking for strength, as in taking the place of a lifeline staunchon, or are you just neatening things up and perventing shaking cross movements?

To my eye the cross clamps look clunkey compared to a proper square lashing and may even damage the cable. I'd hate to be point crimping a stay or a lifeline. it also looks like the clamps would not accomodate two different sizes of wire, if that's you're situation.

Make what I call a siezing spike - like a serving mallet but all metal and no big head. If you have a Myerchin or similar spike, that's about perfect. That way you can work in the tight space and still get the siezing properly snugged up.

In the application of a lifeline crossing a shroud, I have been happy using ss siezing wire in a square lash pattern. Strong enough to jump on.

G'luck

[njl]

Thanks Ian.

Most square lashing diagrams I see use a clove hitch for beginning and end. I'm concerned that a clove hitch wouldn't hold well in the single strand wire "small stuff". That's why I was thinking a Clamptite version might work better since it ends with the beginning bight and two ends of wire locked together. How would you start and end a square lashing using single strand wire?

The application is for an architectural model project I'm working on. In the component I'm designing, two lengths of wire rope are secured to each other at their center. This 90 degree connection slides into a cross shaped slot cut into the end of a spar. The spar is stepped like a mast and the four lines are tensioned like shrouds to position the spar in the air.

Non-slipping is important and a lashing would be better since it would have a lower profile and preserve wire strength. On the other hand the cross clamp would allow easier adjustment while I iron everything out.

[Ian McColgin]

Yeah, a clove hitch is out for any wire siezing. Take a look in "The Rigger's Apprentice" or any other good sourse for how to start and end a wire siezing. Then practice a bit as there's a knack.

[Ian McColgin]

Interesting application. I take it the rig is very low tension so you don't have to worry about splitting the spar and for some reason you don't want simple tangs over the top.

G'luck

[Brion Toss]

Hi,
You might want to serve the wires before seizing or clamping, in order to limit slip under load. As for the knot substitute when using wire, simply start with a long end, wrapped a couple of times around one wire, and trap that end under subsequent turns.
Having said that, I think you'll be able to generate at least as much friction and tension, with less flailing, if you use nylon twine over service. You can heave it tight, add layers, and frap it far more readily.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[njl]

Thanks Brion for explaining the beginning of the lashing. Regarding using nylon over service, in what circumstance would you opt for wire over synthetic seizing line (nylon or another stronger material like dyneema)?

Ian, I believe the tension will not be high enough to split the spar, but I may reinforce the spar end to play it safe. I'm avoiding tangs to allow easy knockdown and minimize components.

There's another thing I've wondered for a while since we're on the topic of seizings and service. If you parcel/serve/slush SS wire, is there an issue with oxygen starvation?

Thanks again for all the advice.