Bowsprit Footing

[Heli-Pilot]

After much research and thinking about your soft-traveler idea, Pelorus, all done away from the boat as I'm stuck at work in Astoria this past week, I have a plan. Bear with me as the explanation might be lengthy:

Prudence's cranze iron is of the "two hole" variety at the top portion. The aft of which is presently occupied by the pin for the jib's Profurl. The forward hole has a swiveling block used for the tack of asymmetrical spinnaker--the one that's a PITA to get to with the ACS's tack line in your teeth as you precariously go forward on the 'sprit. Thus, the ACS is flown "outside" instead of "inside" with the spinnaker halyard block being above and forward on the foremast and the Profurl's halyard reeved through a block at the foremast just below that.

But, what if I switched the arrangement; reeving the jib sheet from the top of the Profurl to the spinnaker halyard's higher block on the foremast and the spinnaker halyard to the present jib's slightly lower halyard block? Naturally, I'd then switch the pin on the Profurl to the forward hole on the cranze iron and the ACS' block to the aft. I saw a BCC 28 named 'Shanti' that has rigged a "soft traveler" which is essentially a leather wrapped, galvanized ring with a fitting so that a line/block can be attached and reeved to the block at the aft end of the cranze. This traveler then is free to slide fore and aft with the ACS' tack line attached. They're readily available by that outfit in England that sells classic hardware.

Thus, the ACS would then jibe inside the jib stay/Profurl. Couple of issues right off; is there enough wire remaining in the turn buckle of the Profurl to accommodate the extra length? I think there is; we'll see upon my return. And, the jib sheets will have to be slacked and secured on the foredeck to allow the ACS to gybe inside the fore-triangle.

Anxious to see how this might be a solution. All opinions welcome, of course.

[pelorus32]

I see exactly what you are thinking...I greatly favour having the asymmetric "outside everything" and gybing outside as well. I think it really helps in going deep with the asymmetric if you can get the tack line nicely slacked away and rotating out to windward. I'd be concerned that, though you might be able to do this, when you gybed you'd have to firstly run the tack strop home then tend the luff to ensure it didn't foul the furler.

The "traveller" I had in mind was only connected to anything at your existing tack block. You would use that tack block for an endless line to which would be attached the "real" tack block.Through this "real" tack block would run the tack strop for the spinnaker.

On deck you would have the endless line running out to the bowsprit end, you would start with the "real" tack block on deck, reeve the tack strop through it and clip on to the spinnaker tack, then using the endless line you'd run it out to your existing tack block. Now you have the tack, on its strop out at the end of the bowsprit. Hoist away, sheet in and adjust the tack strop.

When you come to drop, go to the foredeck, use the endless line to bring the tack and its strop and block back to you. Do whatever you do: blow the tack, secure it, whatever takes your fancy.

Maybe I'm missing some difficulty but I discussed this with someone knowledgeable yesterday and they thought it a sound solution.

That's the trouble with work isn't it - gets in the way of the important things.

Edit: There would be a need for two endless lines probably. Whilst once you have it launched you can gybe it, without two systems you would be faced with a trip out to the end of the bowsprit to pass the tack strop if you were to launch on the "other" gybe.

[Heli-Pilot]

Well Pelorus, after careful scrutiny of the whole bowsprit area, the "inside" idea won't work; won't bother you with the various reasons.

After giving your idea of utilizing a continuous line, that may be just the ticket, and a double continuous line might be even better.

The problem I'm having (other than the precarious footing on a nicely varnished bowsprit in reeving the tack line) is that after gybing, the tack line chafes badly on the lower plates/furling hardware as the tack line is now on the other side. A second continuous line might solve this, but ideally, I'd not to bring the tack back to the stem head to gybe each time. Perhaps some leather chafe protection on the lower furling area?

[pelorus32]

Perhaps some chafe protection...or maybe seeing if you can get the block that's attached to the bowsprit out forward a little more away from the furler.

The bowsprit tip should be strong enough to take that strop a little further away from the cranse iron. Perhaps attach it to the bowsprit with a Dyneema loop seized around the bowsprit tip so that it's a few centimetres fwd of the furler rather than attaching it direct to the cranse iron?

What you don't want to have to do is change the tack over every time you gybe. The idea of two lines is just to allow you to launch it without crawling out on the bowsprit to lead the tack line around the headstay. Once launched it shouldn't foul, regardless of which gybe you are on.

[Heli-Pilot]

Yes, I've thought of that as well. Presently, the Schaefer block at the end of the cranze is of the 360 degree swiveling type and is merely shackled there.

A piece of Dyneema would certainly give it some distance forward of the Profurl drum and mitigate the chafing issue after gybing. My reason for not doing that already, other than aesthetic with the block dangling about on a foot-long piece of rope, is that I didn't want it bashing about when not in use and probably messing up my varnish job. But, with the continuous line more or less permanently reeved, the tension on that should prevent that.

Another thought of function over form is that I might tape off the top portion of the bowsprit and, horror of horrors, sprinkle some fine non-skid into it this Summer; just in case I might have to 'dance' out there for some reason.

I'm anxious to give this a try; gotta head back to Astoria, OR. for another week of work tomorrow, though. Then, if I can just stop spreading that Epifanes Eggshell enamel throughout the galley! Almost finished with that.

Thanks much for your thoughts!

[pelorus32]

I really do feel that work is an embuggerance to pleasure, particularly of the sailing kind!!

As for a heavy block...I have had the same thing and I don't like it one bit. We are about to mount a Wichard low friction ring on a Dyneema strop instead of the block on a Dyneema strop. I'm not sure how well it will work, but this use fits the description: High load, limited travel. That doesn't completely solve the issue but it reduces the weight by about 80% and in a nicer form factor. You might also be able to seize the bottom end of the strop tight to something at the bottom of the furler to keep it upright. See if you can get some Dyneema chafe sleeve and put it over the strop. It is amazingly resistant stuff.

If you get spare time at work here's a nice thread on knots and chafe and splices to keep you happy - it's long! http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/ind...0#entry4510500