Installing a backstay tensioner

[souzag]

Hello...I recently bought a Wichard backstay tensioner, but am unclear as to the proper steps to take prior to installing it (loosen forestay or backstay or both etc,) Does anyone know a step by step procedure to ensure I do it correct the first time, with out error? Thank you for your help. Gary

[Brion Toss]

Hi,
And first, I don't know of any set of instructions, however step-by-step, that would enable anyone to do anything in rigging right the first time. Having said that, the single biggest thing to note is that, on contemporary rigs, with jib furlers, it is very difficult to slack the jibstay turnbuckle (if there is one at all), so the backstay has to be cut such that it is long enough that you can get it started in the backstay turnbuckle, without slacking the jibstay. Failure to do this will result in desperate tensioning procedures, involving main halyards, come-alongs, and winches, as you try to get the head of the mast far enough aft that you can just barely, agonizingly, maybe get that goddam backstay, stubborn catenary and all, to the turnbuckle, which said turnbuckle is open so far that the barrel is hanging on by a literal thread, so you can connect it. How do I know this? Never mind.
So, I'm assuming that your new adjuster is longer, with more throw, than your old turnbuckle. If this is so, and if you are re-using the backstay, slack the existing turnbuckle until the stay is dead slack. You need to be able to push down on the stay and have the turnbuckle be rattling around in its chainplate. If you can't do this without opening the turnbuckle all the way, STOP. A lot of backstays are cut such that there will be significant tension on the stay right up until the moment the turnbuckle explodes apart. To address this, you'll need either to loosen the jibstay, if possible, or go through the abovementioned masochistic ritual.
Once you have a slack backstay, and the jibstay turnbuckle is back where it belongs, open up your adjuster about 3/4 of the way. Install it. Pull the wire down until it is as tight as you can easily make it, and alongside the turnbuckle. Mark the wire where it bears on the clevis pin of the adjuster. Cut the wire so that you can put an eye at this point. You should now have an adjuster that will allow you to rake the mast forward a bit more, should you ever want that, but is still open enough that you can get maximum needed tension long before you run out of thread.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss