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#1
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![]() Hi again,
Relax. All is well. Maybe not optimal, but well. 7x19 is too elastic to be ideal for standing rigging, and too corrosion-vulnerable in warm climates, but it will do just fine. You won't be able to point as high, might have to reef a bit sooner, but hey, I had to use it to rig the Lyle Hess cutter we used as a model for rigging in the "Apprentice". One way to compensate for the extra elasticity is to make the wire oversize, and that appears to be what you have. As for the "consonant" reference, I meant that thimble radius, if it is not to weaken the wire, must be suited to wire diameter and construction. And as it happens, 7x19 can take a relatively tight radius. It might be enough that you just use the heaviest thimbles that can fit into the turnbuckle jaws. Bent turnbuckles are another thing entirely. They are not okay. The rig is always trying to straighten them, and too often simply succeeds in breaking them. Finally, please step back from all these scary details, soften your focus, and see the rig as a whole, as a system. Yes, this is PT woo-woo, but it is also a valuable engineering approach. Component selection should properly happen at the end of a design process, so that all the answers are obvious. Your rig is knowable. Fair leads, Brion Toss |
#2
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![]() I do appreciate everyone's feedback. The knowledge out there is impressive. Consider me learning fast (yet maybe not soon enough or in the right order!) and grateful for the time and thought that has gone into your answers.
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#3
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![]() Brion, can you say more about why the boat will not point as high with the 3/16 7x19 stays? And is there some way to know that it is time to reef (prior to when I might normally?...usually before I go out if the wind is above 15 in the channel where I am. I am pretty conservative.)
Is there a book (or equation) that details how one determines, for instance, mast height, wire size, turnbuckles size on a given boat style of specific dimensions? On my turnbuckles it is one of the threaded rods on the fork that are slightly bent on 3 of them. I would like to at least get the rigging on the boat (and, therefore, mast out of the boatyard) until I can find good used or purchase new ones. Will going for a sail in mild winds (under 15) be out of the question until I get those replaced? I REALLY do appreciate SparTalk. Thanks. |
#4
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![]() One cannot predict the failure moment of a compromised bit of rigging. The bend is not the whole story - there may be some corrosion; depending on how the bend was inflicted it may have compromised the molecular structure; and depending on exactly how the forces straighening it out work out, the molecular structure could reach a breaking point or not. One guy around here ran into a dock and put a quite noticable bend in one stud of his jibstay turnbuckle. That was about ten years ago. Still sailing happily and his approach to sail trim is so casual that any loss of pointing ability is hidden by general sloppiness. On the contrary, one of my seven dismastings was due to the sudden failure of a turnbuckle with a bent stud, a bend so subtle that when I'd pointed it out to the owner and suggested we change it, he opted to try for just one more year . . .
So fix it. Or not but no whining if the risk turns to reality. G'luck |
#5
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![]() @ Ian, thanks.
@ Brion, I should have known you wrote the book. Yup, new to changing rigging. Thanks, I look forward to the book. |
#6
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Fair leads, Brion Toss |
#7
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![]() Interesting. While most people talk about wind speed for reefing I have found that my best indicator of when it is "time" to reef is sustained weather helm of 10 degrees or more with the sails balanced as well as I can.
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