Dux Rigging - Turnbuckles and or deadeyes

[alaskanviking]

bobbin thimble, as in using the bobbin as a thimble, direct to the turnbuckle. i dont think i have ever seen an eye splice to a bobbin, do you have any pictures?

[Joe Henderson]

Dear Viking,

No, they are not "lashing Thimbles" and do a comletely different job.

Have a look at the pictures.

All those round things are what I (for want of a better name, and to distinguish them from round thimbles or lashing thimbles or bullseyes, or sheaves) have called bobbin thimbles.

I am certain someone on here will have a better name for them, such is the way of life!

You will also see some turnbuckle top ends with a thimble in the jaw end.

To terminate;-

Splice a loose eye around the thimble.

Apply correctly sized throat seizing in correct position to retain thimble.

Q.E.D.

Joe.

[rockfordwoods]

Joe, that is some fine looking and heavy rigging. It looks like it will be an incredible amount of fun to rig that schooner. I had considered making round thimbles as you have there, but thought that either 1) the throat seizing and whipping will have to be extra heavy to avoid the rope having an opportunity to jump out if the mast should whip a bit, or 2) you have to keep the clearance between fork, rope and thimble small enough so the rope cannot come out. Since you look to have taken the path of least clearance, are you able to put the throat seizings far enough from the thimble so they do not carry a heavy load from turning the line?

[Joe Henderson]

Dear Rock,

I have never seen a stay fitted with a bobbin thimble even come close to jumping out when the mast, inevitably, "whips a bit".

The seizing is in the same area that a normal seized - in thimble seizing is positioned, and ensures that the legs of the eye are no more open than with a normal heart shaped thimble.

Remember that bobbin thimbles are formed exactly the same as normal solid heart shaped thimbles ( which are sized and made to take a pin ) up to about 100 degrees each side of the crown and the line captures the bobbin in such a way that it is impossible to pry the thimble out of the eye.

Think of them as solid heart-shaped thimbles with 75 percent of the point cut off.

The clearances in the jaw and on the pin are snug, but not overly so, just the normal working clearance I would require for swaged or StaLok eyes on wire.

Clearance in the jaw, and in the upper tangs, has no effect on the security of the eye.

I have seen many seized-in, and both hand and machine spliced heart shaped thimbles that were slack up around the points with the thimble cocked-over in the eye, it would be difficult to pry those thimbles out of the eye too, but I have never seen one fall out in service.

You need a beefy rigging vise and the correct tools and materials to apply seizings that are reliable, long lasting and up to the task.

Regards,

Joe,.