Finishing the locked Brummel

[seawolf]

Brion,
In the field book #5 under bonus splice figure #14 your instructions state start bury right below the brummel.
It was in the splicing video in the naked spectra eye splice that you mentioned run the wand up to the brummel, a couple of inches is fine.
The practice is helping but,
My main difficulties is getting the line through the inverted hockles. I seem to distort the line quite a bit to get this through.
In the video it seems the line practically slides right up and through with hardly a bother. Maybe the spectra is a little looser weave than the Amsteel Blue?
Thanks again everyone for the help. Its getting fun.
Fair winds.
Bob

[seawolf]

Bob,
Thanks again for your reply and help.
I will put a whipping on that part of the splice.
What would be the best size of line and material since this will be out in the sun.
Any treatment over the whipping to protect from chafe/UV
All I have now is some sail twine and that is probably not good for this whipping/serving type of application.
Thanks again. You guys are great.
Fair Winds.
Bob

[Brion Toss]

Hi again,
First, be sure that you are passing the eye through the hockle in the same direction that the end went through. Otherwise you'll get an extra-hockled hockle.
For stiffer line, I pass a length of stout twine up through the hockle, through the eye, then back down through the hockle, and then use the twine to pull the eye through. Massaging as it goes helps, as does using a fid to open up the hockle beforehand.
As for the twine type, plain ol' waxed sail twine is as good as it gets.
Keep at it!
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[seawolf]

Hello Brion,
Thanks for your last post.
I will try your advise on the next practice eyes I do.
I want to have it down before I assemble the life lines.
I have round bronze thimbles for the lashing ends that I found through Duckworks..
I was unable to find stainless ones.

Do you have a source for the stainless round sail thimbles for 1/4" line?
Thanks again for the great service your website provides.
Fair Winds.
Bob

[Brion Toss]

Hi again,
Bronze turns green, but is that a problem? I've seen round stainless thimbles, but rarely. Might try a sailmaker, or Toplicht.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[seawolf]

Hello Brion,
I do not see a problem using the bronze. One of the thimbles on the bow end will be close to the deck so it will get its share of salt water. Green is no problem, I.m Irish!
Your tip on using string to bring the line in through the hockles worked great and also some of the problems I was experiencing had to do with trying to run the line in through the wrong side of the hockle creating another. Thanks for the tips. I am having fun now.
One Question:
I thought I measured well eye to eye for my lines. Each line required two splices, so I added 18" for each bury and 4inches each for the eyes to the total length.
I still came up about 5 inches short on each line for the completed span. Luckily this means only a longer lashing, but not as tidy as I had wished.
Did I miss something on the calculation?

I would like to share some pictures if you think anyone would be interested in seeing the completed lifelines installed.
What is the procedure?
Again, my appreciation for all the help and a great site.
Bob

[Brion Toss]

Hi again,
When you make this type of splice, the part you bury the tail in gets fatter and shorter -- like we all do -- so you need to add a bit to compensate before splicing. The amount will vary depending on rope construction and diameter, as well as the overall length and the taper of the tail. A couple of inches is fairly typical, but you can zero in by making a mark a known distance from the bearing point of the eye, before splicing, and then seeing how much it has moved after splicing.
Also, have you also deducted for constructional stretch? In most HM it is about a foot in fifty feet.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[seawolf]

Hello all.
Brion. Thanks for your latest reply on my post.
Possibly when I put a lot of tension on the life lines, I will gain a couple of inches in the process.
Is it a common practice to pre-stretch the HM lines before attempting a splice, especially when you are talking long lengths as in stays and shrouds?
Or is this measurement something riggers compensate for through experience?
Possibly both?
And and at what point would you be certain to have stretched enough for proper measurement thereafter?
Thanks.