Tying off a deadeye lanyard?

[Ian McColgin]

Russ L's reference is great - shows the thing in use but I didn't see a clear shot of the thing itself. Try contacting him directly.

This tool is really necessary for setting up a large rig at the dock. I don't think you really need that much umph on a boat under 20 tons. I've been happy using a mallet and a heaving hitch or, as I hesitantly mentioned because it goes against the orthodoxy I was taught, just setting up by hand from the leeward side.

G'luck

[Gashmore]

Thank you gentlemen. I was over thinking the problem.

BTW. I am putting the finishing touches on my report on a year of testing a piece of 9mm Dynex Dux under more or less controlled conditions and will post it on my web site soon. I am within a hair of Colligo's figures for both elongation and creep. Also had an accelerated UV test done on some fiber by a real lab and the result was pretty impressive.

The next problem is that Rutu has composite chainplates so I will have to figure out some toggles that fit the distributors.

Glenn

[Brian Duff]

Where did the design for these chainplates come from?
Does anyone know where I would find information to replace the stainless (broken) waterstay chainplates on my small trimaran with fiberglass chainplates?

Thanks Folks...

[Brian Duff]

Where did the design for these chainplates come from?
Does anyone know where I would find information to replace the stainless (broken) waterstay chainplates on my small trimaran with fiberglass chainplates?

Thanks Folks...

[Gashmore]

I'm not sure composite chainplates could be retrofitted the way mine are made. They were planned from the start with fan shaped recesses in the topside core. Before the deck was laid a solid FRP block extends above the sheer line and a stainless pin laid on top. Everything was then wrapped in uni strips that fan out to fill the recess inside and out. The pin was removed and gaps were ground out for the toggles.

The D1 plates were a bit more of a challenge. They were fabricated off the boat and installed after the deck was installed. They are basically inverted tees with the cross forming a flange that is fitted to the inside of the topsides and angled to keel the pins perpendicular to the D1 shroud. I had to build a jig/mold for each side to keep the shape exact. Once in place they were heavily glassed to the deck and the topsides.