Tying off a deadeye lanyard?

[Jack]

Really easy Gashmore......This is for the Colligo Dux set up....If I have an assistant, and I am in port. I take the tail and attach it to the halyard. Better than a headsail winch as you get the force going in the direction of the tail. Make sure you start all the the lashings at the top dead eye. The tail then runs up on after the last pass through the bottom deadeye. When I get the tension I want, I pinch off the lashing tail with a thumb and finger. It does not require anymore force than that. And I have the assistant release the halyard winch. Then lash up the tail.
If I am alone I use a small pair of vice grips. I pinch off the tail down low, and release the halyard myself. Then tie up a few hitches and release the vice gripes. Works really well. I have done it out at sea, it pretty lousy conditions.
Instructions on the lash up. I know it is not traditional to hitch it this way, but it has worked really well. I have also used bare hands when the leeward side looks to slack, between the slick Dyneem lashings, and the polished deadeyes of Colligo, their seems to be just the right amount of friction and slickness...:-)
http://www.colligomarine.com/docs/mi...ie_ver_1_1.pdf

[Ian McColgin]

I'm hesitant to recommend something I actually do because it goes against some grain - I was always taught when doing fine-tuning with a modern rig under sail never to tighten the leeward (slackish) turnbuckles. Rather, take a half turn on the weather side and then tack.

However a couple of summers ago I retuned a schooner with deadeyes and found that trimming the lee side by hand with frequent checks that I was keeping the mast in colum and the truck centered worked out about right, leaving the rig appropriatly tight when the mast was unloaded, like sails down, and allowing the lee shrouds to be just unloaded but not flapping about Fresh Breeze (Force 5, a bit under 20 knots average).

Works without special tools or guages and makes you one with the boat.

[Jack]

Ian, I have googled every possible direction and cannot find this tool? Any leads when I might dig up a photo or description? Thanks


Get Clyderigged’s pictures of the the trescool tensioning tool he made and uses.

[Russ L]

Hi Jack,
The woodenboat site photos are broken.
You might find the tool in his photoalbum:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/squarerigger/page2/

BTW, "trescool" = "very cool" in sometimes French, Canada. I have no idea how an Aussie uses the term.

Cheers, Russ

[Ian McColgin]

Russ L's reference is great - shows the thing in use but I didn't see a clear shot of the thing itself. Try contacting him directly.

This tool is really necessary for setting up a large rig at the dock. I don't think you really need that much umph on a boat under 20 tons. I've been happy using a mallet and a heaving hitch or, as I hesitantly mentioned because it goes against the orthodoxy I was taught, just setting up by hand from the leeward side.

G'luck

[Gashmore]

Thank you gentlemen. I was over thinking the problem.

BTW. I am putting the finishing touches on my report on a year of testing a piece of 9mm Dynex Dux under more or less controlled conditions and will post it on my web site soon. I am within a hair of Colligo's figures for both elongation and creep. Also had an accelerated UV test done on some fiber by a real lab and the result was pretty impressive.

The next problem is that Rutu has composite chainplates so I will have to figure out some toggles that fit the distributors.

Glenn

[Brian Duff]

Where did the design for these chainplates come from?
Does anyone know where I would find information to replace the stainless (broken) waterstay chainplates on my small trimaran with fiberglass chainplates?

Thanks Folks...

[Brian Duff]

Where did the design for these chainplates come from?
Does anyone know where I would find information to replace the stainless (broken) waterstay chainplates on my small trimaran with fiberglass chainplates?

Thanks Folks...