Staying with Synthetics

[Jack]

I have posted a rather lengthy article about my adventures with Dynex Dux rigging. And rather than burn up server space here I will just provide you with a link.



http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ics-30405.html

[blahman]

Jack and others,

My question here about converting to bronze chainplates opened my eyes to dynex dux as an option for rerigging my W32; its stainless wire is way due!

Something I have not seen addressed is how dux rigging handles traditional "stuff" being attached to it. Pinrails, ratlines, light boxes, flag halyards, small cleats, fairleads, etc. Is it OK to seize things to the dux? Self amalgamating tape works to keep seizing from slipping?

Also, we've all heard about this stuff being "do it yourself" friendly, but I imagine there are some specific principals, such as the method and rate of tapering a splice so as to prevent the premature breakage Brion mentioned. Looking through Calligo's products, I see all of the necessary distributors and such that I could hook up to my current tangs, but perhaps there is something I'm missing? I know the W32 at the Annapolis show had replaced his tangs; was that for weight or some other reason?

I'm also sending an email to Colligo for the "complimentary rigging design" for a quote, so hopefully I'll get an affordable answer.

Thanks for your time!
Aaron N.

[blahman]

Hello all,

Heard back from Colligo with a quote. Pricy for the whole rig, so I'm considering only converting the shrouds and jib/back stays. This would reduce the amount of $80 fittings by more than half and bring the cost into my price range.

I have been following the rerigging of BCC Shanti and am considering using one of the Colligo, or other, free furlers (the Code Zero isn't large enough).

I currently have a bowsprit with a large platform and double rail pulpit, but it is all off the boat being refinished. I am considering leaving the platform and rail off if I choose to install one of these furlers as I would not have to go to the end of the bowsprit to change sails, assuming I set it up so that the furler could be brought in.

I'm thinking of setting it up this way:
Use some low-stretch line to attach to the bottom of the furler and reeve it through a block at the end of the bowsprit. Then, when the furler has to come in, this "outhaul" line could be slacked and the furler brought in for changing sails. My bowsprit is rectangular, so a hoop wouldn't work, but it seems like this outhaul concept may. Another option would be having a much lighter aluminum bowsprit made (similar to the one on the Wireless Westsail). Does anyone have contact info for the owner of that W32? I'd really like to get in touch with him or her to discuss some of the stuff they did to their boat!

Also, does anyone know where to get Dynex Dux with a coverbraid? If it isn't available in the 9mm range yet, I'm thinking of picking up some standard polyester outside braid from Miami Cordage and manually putting the DD inside it. This would act as a sacrificial layer for the sun, and would could even be set up to be replaceable.

Thoughts?

If the Dux still winds up being too expensive, I guess I'll replace it all with 5/16" 316 SS with HiMod fittings. Galvanized and service is an option but I'm not sure about committing to that route!

Thanks for your help!
Aaron N.

[Jack]

You can always save some bucks by going with your own turnbuckles. Maybe you could change out everything then add the deadeyes at a later date when you have the money. I am not sure but it is close to 70 or 80 bucks saved per rope that way. As long as your turnbuckles are good.