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  #1  
Old 06-17-2009, 05:42 AM
wfraser wfraser is offline
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Default Number of tucks in synthetic three-strand tapered eye splices

I know that with natural fibers, three tucks are required, and with synthetic five for a standard eye splice. What about in a synthetic tapered eye splice?

I've been ribboning the line and doing three tucks, then reducing the number of yarns(?) from nine to five, then another two tucks, then reducing to three for the final two. Total: seven tucks. The splices look long and clunky.

Should I be reducing after the first tuck and then every tuck thereafter to the fifth tuck, or is it best to add extra tucks to compensate for reduced friction/hold?

Last edited by wfraser : 06-17-2009 at 05:44 AM. Reason: clarity
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  #2  
Old 06-17-2009, 06:28 AM
Ian McColgin Ian McColgin is offline
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Our mooring officer, claiming authority from Lloyde's, approves three full tucks and then taper one strand at a time, so one strand has a total of four tucks, then next five and the third six.

I'd not use such a short splice on nylon line less than 3/4" diameter and I'd look at the construction carefully. Some nylon sold for anchor rode is pretty loose and needs at least 5 or even 7 full tucks. This is not scientifically based and I'm sure Brion has some specs to help us here but my own rule of thumb is that dacron, good quality nylon and thicker lines can all hold up nicely with three full before taper. Should you use polypropolene for something that involves an eyesplice, I recommend 7 full tucks before taper.

I don't like tapering by yarns. The workmanlike approach of lopping off another strand per tuck - total taper is three tucks long - is nice to the rope in that the taper is long enough that you don't have a stress induced hard spot and it looks neat. Tapering by yarns is very fussy to keep the yarn ends inside and it ends in unattractive, to my eye, mix of unlaid strands weaving about.

But de gustibus non disputandem est.
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Old 06-18-2009, 05:18 AM
wfraser wfraser is offline
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I'm and will be working with New England Classic Spun and Filament Polyester three strand on everything from sheets, halyards, and reef lines to bowsprit netting and ratlines. And I'll be tapering eye splices till the cows come home. The suggestion of "taper(ing) one strand at a time, so one strand has a total of four tucks, then next five and the third six" seems a good one for the reasons mentioned and for the added time-saving benefit. Tapering by reducing yarns is messy.

Thanks, Ian

de gustibus aut bene, aut nihil
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  #4  
Old 06-20-2009, 05:36 PM
Brion Toss Brion Toss is offline
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Hi there,
First, I am not a fan of the "Frisco Taper", which is the name for the practice of dropping whole strands. The result is an unbalanced rope, and strands that are progressively more vulnerable to pulling as you approach the eye. Can't be whipped neatly, either.
On the other hand, I'm not a big fan of tapering nylon ropes by classical bit-at-a-time methods, as destruction tests we've done indicate a surprising weakening effect from tapers. Only in nylon, and I don't know the cause. Also in nylon, I've seen 5 tucks slip in extreme conditions, particularly in rotation.That's why we make 6 full tucks, and one backed tuck, and whip or Constrictor over the ends. Good test and real-world results, plus it's handsome.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss
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Old 06-21-2009, 02:23 AM
wfraser wfraser is offline
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Thanks for the comment. I'm not familiar with the back tuck. Is this one final tuck worked back over the top of the splice toward the eye?

When using polyester rope spliced with full tucks is it still a good idea then to flatten the strands to keep the size down?

Warren Fraser
s/v Voyager of Yokohama
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  #6  
Old 06-21-2009, 02:26 PM
Brion Toss Brion Toss is offline
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Hi again,
A backed tuck is one taken with the lay, rather than against. It's the style sailmakers use, because it is more compact. If you make all the tucks this way you'll have a sailmaker's splice, of sorts. Riggers don't do this because it is less secure; sailmakers deal with this by sewing the rope to the canvas. But backing the last tuck on on a rigger's splice makes for a quick taper.
As for flattening the strands, it is always best to do so, both because the splice is more compact -- and thus more chafe-resistant and handsome -- and because the splice is more secure, as the flattened strands can generate more friction in the rope.
I believe you'll find more about these details in the "Apprentice", among other places.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss
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