Bow sprit para anchor question

[atmarineservices]

I have a Flicka 20, and my question lies regarding the inner through bolt of the bow sprit to the deck. I have the sprit removed, and it is through bolted with 1/2 ss rod using 1/2" G10 backing plates on both sides, and washers and nuts. I was wondering is the inner, threaded rod could accecpt an eye nut to be used with a block for the para anchor, or an inner stay if the boat has lee helm with the storm sails up. The bow sprit ir fir and great condition. Is this a mistake to add such a high load peice of gear to a structial nessasity that supports the rig? Or might this attachment point be ok for the use? Thanks,Zach

[Brian Duff]

probably 'ok' for use as a staysail stay. not so good for the anchor. this is because the anchor will just bend the 1/2" rod. but in straight load from the stay it should serve fine. THis is all many westail 32's have to hold the staysail, and eyebolt 1/2"

[atmarineservices]

Thanks Brian, any suggestions for a padeye of some sort to take a block for the para anchor? How about a wichard padeye? or can you utilize the foward cleats and run them through the chocks, but chaffe might be an issue. Thanks,Zach

[benz]

Why anyone would run a sea anchor rode through a block is beyond me. Perhaps there's some deployment issue I'm not aware of. What I have done to eliminate chafe at chocks and such is eliminate them entirely. Instead I made really beefy bowsprit shroud chainplates with an extra hole for a shackle. I have a spliced bridle that ends in stainless steel Wichard carabiners, and these clip to shackles in the extra chainplate holes. The bridle can be attached to whatever rode is deployed, be it sea anchor, anchor or mooring, and there is nowhere for anything to chafe. It takes some fooling around to find all the proper sized hardware, but it was worth it to rid myself of some major chafe sources. And all my several components are modular, thus can be changed out easily as their useful life ends.
If you're not willing to fool about with your bobstay chainplates, a big padeye bolted to the outside of the bulwark ought to to the trick.
If that was confusing, email me ( zenithdistance@yahoo.com ) and I can shoot you a photo.
Best,
Ben

[Brian Duff]

i am moving here beyond my direct expirience, as I have never used a sea anchor in conditions as bad as I am descibing. Experts such as Lin and Larry Pardey advocate having the sea anchor depolyed in a manner that allows the boat to sit slightly off the breeze, that she will constantly offer only one side to the seas and reduce sternway thus.

check out their Storm Tactics Videos for more info...

[benz]

I have heard the theory of having bows askew while riding out the weather, and it occurs to me that it would be childishly simple to make up a cockeyed bridle with one leg shorter than the other to achieve the same effect without having to worry about chafe, which I've been led to believe is the reason for the loss of many a sea anchor. Most people opt for a dedicated sea anchor rode, so a dedicated sea anchor bridle isn't much further to go.
I, too, have never deployed a sea anchor ( hove-to quite a bit, but never been that hammered), but I've dealt with the demon of chafe enough to put lots of thought into its mitigation. If I'm all out of whack, I hope someone will pipe up and set me straight before I live to regret it.
Best,
Ben

[Brion Toss]

Hello,
In relatively long conversation with Lin and Larry, I've learned that loading, particularly on turning blocks, is as common a failure cause as chafe, and that the whole system needs to be looked at in any event, including for handling considerations. Thus I would likely avoid outboard anchor points, not readily reachable from inboard. If that results in chafe, there are ways to prevent it, including using dacron instead of nylon in the way of the chocks. Adjustability is good.
As for the original question about the throughbolt, Zach I'm glad to hear that you are reluctant to combine functions on one bolt, particularly ones for which the bolt wasn't designed. I'd probably epoxy-pot padeyes on for stay and block. These would be stronger in both tension and shear than the bolt. There are ways to include the bolt in the job, but it shouldn't be asked to do everything all by its lonesome.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss