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#1
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![]() Morning Ben,
Leather does appear to be the simpler way to go. . .And, increased UV resistance is good, so that may be the way to go for practical reasons. While thinking on it last night, it seems that I could still get a locking Brummel splice of a sort by passing the standing end thru the line right under where the working end (with tail) passes thru. Then with a nice long, tapered bury of the tail, stiched at the splice, it would be secure. These shrouds are for my Wharram Tiki 26, so the static loads are not large. In my research of amsteel and similar line, creep becomes a factor if the line is loaded over 20% of working load. Thx, Kim |
#2
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![]() Well, here is the prototype:
![]() I achieved the upper soft eye locked brummel as mentioned above. I went ahead with the Sta-set cover since it was "there." ![]() |
#3
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![]() you need to milk the outer line down more over the bury toward the brummel, it appears as thpugh the core bury is not bearing load, rather all is on your brummel. probably just milking the line toward the eye will do the job.
looks alright otherwise - although the photo doesn't zoom in well enough to see if you inverted your mobius the right way - kinda looks proud but so does the other one which must be right. nice- i like the sta-set cover on the line, we do a similar thing for softeyes here, but with dyneema cover... riggers rock
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Brian Duff BVI Yacht Sales, Tortola |
#4
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