Plastic shroud covers OK or not?

[bwindrope]

I've searched the forum and nothing comes up for this so here goes. I've just replaced all my standing rigging (myself, a different story) and also happen to have just replaced my genoa sheets. Noticing after just a few sails that the cover on the sheets is already getting all fuzzed up, even though the wire is new and slick.

So, the question is, is it OK to put those plastic covers on the shroud wire or does that limit oxygen too much to the stainless and cause corrosion. If they are not OK, what else is better? Looking around my port here in Friday Harbor, I notice most boats just have bare wire, but shoot, I don't want to go through sheets every few months...

Any help appreciated.

[Ian McColgin]

I've not observed excess corrosion under even tight plastic. I prefer slightly loose tubing so the lines can roll over the shroud but this, like the even nicer wood rollers, may seem to some excess windage and to others clunky looking.

Shrouds generally go at a fitting, where the wire has been stressed and salts can accumulate with moisture.

While on covers and to vent a pet peave: For stainless and bronze turnbuckles, I hate turnbuckle boots and hate tape even more. A properly installed turnbuckle with properly sized cotters and clevises leaves no sharp protrusions, especially if one uses Brion's trick with the welding rod in the turnbuckle studs.

For galvi or iron turnbuckles, there's nothing like a nicely fitted sewn leather boot that's packed with lanolin or even waterpump grease.

G'luck

[bwindrope]

Thanks for the input Ian,
Are you a rigger and have seen countless shrouds under these conditions? I see those bulky roller things on people's shrouds and wondered whether they were intended to allow better oxygen flow to reduce corrosion. If that's not the reason for them, then I agree with those who find them unattractive. Also, although a minor point, I would rather not have something rolly on my shroud when I have to grab it for stability.

I share your views on turnbuckles. All the literature supports it too. That was the origin of my concern about shroud sleeves. I have nice new Hayn chromed bronze turnbuckles that are just beautiful. At least, to all of us who marvel at elegant machinery they are beautiful. I'm looking for that stainless welding rod and will go that route when I find some, but in the meantime use large gauge cotter rings that face inward and present no edges.

Thanks again

[Brion Toss]

Hello,
I'm with Ian on the turnbuckles (and any welding supply shop will have TIG rod, probably in both stainless and bronze), but I have seen numerous wire failures from tight-fitting covers. The problem is by far the most serious in warmer climes. My favorite story was about an owner who religiously checked his terminals and the bottom of the wire, by sliding the shroud covers up a few inches, then sliding them back down. The wire broke near the top of one cover, and the rig went over.
Loose-fitting rollers can be disorienting to grab onto, but I actually prefer them, as they make it easy to swing past the shroud. They also can roll as the sail passes, and present a much larger radius to the sail, reducing chafe that much better.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[Ian McColgin]

Thank you Brion. My lack of tropical experience shows in issues like this.

While I have worked as a rigger, learned from some real masters, been attentivly observing boats for most of my 60 years, and was when younger a mountaineer and steeplejack, there's a lot about rigging I don't know, especially as one gets to the heavy commercial side like big cranes.

[bwindrope]

Well, there we have it. Thanks Brion. Hearing from you on the subject is like, well, hearing from you on the subject. I'll keep my eyes open for instructions on how to turn some PVC pipe into shroud covers. At least those I see look like PVC. Even in our cold waters here, I feel pretty protective of my new wires!

By the way, I just read your Riggers Apprentice. Wow. I aspire to be such a master of a particular subject, but fear I am doomed to generalist status. Thanks for codifying so much of your knowledge for the rest of us. I did look there for content on shroud covers, and didn't see it, though I probably just missed it.

Hoping to get out for some nice sailing this weekend, with us getting our first expected sunny days with highs above 50 this winter in the NW.

Cheers,

[Ian McColgin]

Nice ash rollers, quite a chore to make and pricy to buy, come in two halves and lash in place. Not really suitable for PVC. So best approach is to install the PVC before any terminals are fitted to the stay. The exception might be if you have a turnbuckle stud swaged directly to the stay. Then the inside diameter of a suitable bit of PVC pipe might fit over. But who remembers that?

In warm weather you can cut down one wall. I experimented with a table saw but the kerf was too big. Works best to use a hacksaw blade unsupported, just tape one end, wear gloves, or have really hard hands. Have the teeth oriented so the cut is on the pull stroke. It's amazing how quickly and easily you can go. Once cut, you can then open a bit of tube at a time, slipping the PVC pipe over the stay. Have some of that PVC solvent-cement. Dope the slit and use little bits of duct tape at frequent intervals to hold the slot closed till it cures. Peel the tapes and presto!