Splicing Swiftcord

[AaronS]

OK, how, or can you, splice the new composite single braids like Maffioli Swiftcord? I'm using 3/16" Swiftcord and Harken 40mm Ti-Lite blocks to make a set of twings. I can't seem to get my splicing wand (small) through the line. I seem to get the finger trap scenario after a few inches. I thought of using a lengh of TIG wire as a fid, but I've seem to have lost my supply to making cotter pins. Would a set of seizings be acceptable? I know it's difficult to get the line balanced when making seizings, but I really don't want to tie a knot in this stuff, as it's made with Dyneema. I've been able to splice Conception (Yale) with a little difficulty, but I really like the hand of Swiftcord. Am I missing something here? Anyone have experience with this? Thanks,

Aaron

[Brion Toss]

Hello,
I think you want something that doesn't quite exist yet. We've made a prototype 'Micro Wand' for splicing extra-teeny HM line, and we'll be producing them for others' soon. Contact Maria at the shop about timing.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[osteoderm]

i was having similar problems splicing some tiny Maxibraid. The Mobius Brummel worked out great, but darned if i could bury the tail! In lieu of a microwand, i used some sail twine:
i started with a hank of twine a little over twice the length of the bury, doubled it over, and threaded the two bitter ends through the eye of a blunted needle. i milked the needle, eye-first, down the inside of the line, away from the splice. A little past the length of the bury, i fed the needle out, removed it from the bitter ends, and was left with a loop projecting from the beginning of the bury, and the two bitter ends projecting from past the end of the bury. i tucked the frayed tail through the loop, and pulled it through, milking plenty of slack into the line.
After a few of these, i found that if i used a long enough piece of twine, i could leave the tail entirely buried on the first go, rather than the usual procedure of pulling it free, removing the loop, then milking the frayed and tapered end back into the line. i then tapered the frayed end before pulling it through. To remove "trapped" twine, i usually just pulled on one of the bitter ends, rather than both. Only once did the twine break, but since there was a smooth bury evident (nice, compact, tapered), i just left the broken bit of twine in there; i don't suppose it'll hurt any.

[MikeR]

I use a ton of 1/8" Amsteel building spinny sheets and the like. Until Brion produces his micro wand, go to a craft store and buy a length of thin wall brass or aluminium tubing. Cut the end at an angle, polish it so it won't snag, thread a bight of strongish thread through it and you're ready to go. Not as "elegant" as what Brion will produce but it works.

Cheers,

MikeR

Originally Posted by AaronS

OK, how, or can you, splice the new composite single braids like Maffioli Swiftcord? I'm using 3/16" Swiftcord and Harken 40mm Ti-Lite blocks to make a set of twings. I can't seem to get my splicing wand (small) through the line. I seem to get the finger trap scenario after a few inches. I thought of using a lengh of TIG wire as a fid, but I've seem to have lost my supply to making cotter pins. Would a set of seizings be acceptable? I know it's difficult to get the line balanced when making seizings, but I really don't want to tie a knot in this stuff, as it's made with Dyneema. I've been able to splice Conception (Yale) with a little difficulty, but I really like the hand of Swiftcord. Am I missing something here? Anyone have experience with this? Thanks,

Aaron

[Steve Hammerman]

I had posted this image several years ago on an old version of the forum, along with the agonizing details of how it was done, how long it took, and how many/bad the blisters were. Essentially, the brummel was made using the traditional method of passing each end through the other with alot of grunting and groaning. The tapered bury was the really difficult part and was accomplished in small segmental increments with the aid of several lubricants. I've since used the same time consuming, labor-intensive technique for other sizes with good results.

(Will try to post the image with some help soon, as it in not currently on a server, and only exists on my hard drive)