Enclosed Thimbles

[Ted Reshetiloff]

Can elaborate on the "welded thimble"? I was planning on making the splice a tight as I can get it. Again I was really hoping to be able to buy a stainless or galvanized 3/4" thimble that was enclosed so it could not pop out.

[Bob Pingel]

It sounds like Brion's shop can help you with a keeper thimble -- a metallic version of the nylon ones that are commonly available. I'd give them a call at 360 385 1080. I am sure you find the experience enjoyable and the price fair.

As you said, you want the splice as tight as possible, and service at the throat can help tighten things further.

With that said, Brion and many others have a preference to splice the rope directly to the chain. They have found the chafe to be lower, security to be higher, and the splice runs over windlasses and bow rollers far easier. Brion has covered this well in The Rigger's Apprentice -- though in three-strand -- I am sure Brion or others would be willing to consult on how to perform this splice in 12-strand.

Bob Pingel

[SV Papillon]

We did the same on our last boat and I liked it quite a bit. We did the Shovel splice. Seperating the strands into quarters and passing through in opposing pairs over about 2' of chain. We used oversized 3 strand that was easier to hold onto and this splice allowed for a clean transition into the chain whereas a tucked splice back into the line wouldn't have.

pg 92 of The riggers apprentice

Jake

[Ted Reshetiloff]

I dont have a windlass but it is starting to sound like a splice may be an easier way to go than fabricating an acceptable thimble. My friend who would probably help with the fab work may be able to do the 12 strand to chain splice. If not I can probably find a local rigger to so it. I am just getting started with splicing and don't think I'm quite up to this one just yet...

[SV Papillon]

Not being one to push goods, however picking up a copy of the riggers apprentice would be worth your money. The shovel splice, line to chain, would be a fine first splice. Other than being time consuming it is very easy to do. The book is a worthy tool for future projects and you can always bring questions back the source, the author is the host.

Jake

[Brian Duff]

Has anyone done any load testing on the shovel splice ? I have completed quite a few from braided line to chain that have given fine service (at least as far as I am aware), but never having done it on my own gear I wonder about the longevity and strength. I have always covered the whole 'sh-bang' (what else can one call a shovel splice?) with service of sorts to protect all the individual yarns.

It seems like getting even tension on all yarns in the rope is near impossible with the shovel splice. With a tucked or buried splice around a thimble , a very percise job can be done. This will of course only work if you have a large anchor roller and no windlass, like Ted.

Maybe the shovel splice is just as strong and secure as a large thimble and bury or tuck splice. Anybody KNOW ?

I would call Brion and order one of his 'keeper thimbles' if this were my problem...

[SV Papillon]

I can only comment on what we had. Our line rode was our secoundary rode and was only set if we were in a particular place for a long time. We sat through a couple good blows where the line rode with the shovel splice was taking the brunt. Our secondary anchor was a aluminum fortress in one instance where it was loaded over night it took about an hour to free the anchor as it had set pretty hard, no visible signs of wear, broken yarns etc. I was reluctant to service the entire splice in an effort to let the yarns work themselves in giving a uniform load, just theory on my part, I have no idea if it was the case.

Jake

[Renoir]

From an idea that I got from Brion about 4 years ago I have eliminated anchor gear thimbles. Dress the end link of your anchor chain so that the zinc coating presents no "pimples" or other mechanism that can cause chafe. Buy a length of double braid polyester (about 20 ft) that has a diameter will JUST fit through the end link of the chain (5/8 inch for a 3/8" chain for example).

Using directions in The Riggers Apprentice (or better yet view Brion's splicing DVD for the dynamic visualization) splice an eye in the end link of the anchor chain.

Splice an eye in the other end of the polyester anchor chain-to-rode interface pendant sufficiently large so as to accept two diameters of your rode.

Splice an eye in the end of your rode sufficiently large so as to accept two diameters of the polyester pendant.

Pass the bitter end of the rode through the polyester eye, pass the bitter end through the other end eye of the rode and snug it up. You then have a "square knot" looking connection formed by the two eyes intertwined together. This is STRONG.

The polyester will not stretch under load at the chain link and, therefore, you will experience almost no wear (other than what can be caused by dirt and grit if you don't keep it clean).

The result will pass through a hawse pipe that a sufficiently strong thimble will not and will be probably much stronger and longer lasting.