Replacing forestay under a Harken "0" Furling system

[joelucca]

Hi, I have a 20 year old Harkin Furler, Model "0" on my Columbia 8.7. This system has worked without fault since I had it installed 20 years ago. However, I want to replace my headstay and haven't a clue how to disassemble this unit and put it back to together. I still have the installation manual. I would love to hire a rigger to do this, but there are none in Lewes, Delaware, where my boat is docked. Any insights on this topic (including a rigger) would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Joe

You have two ways of going about replacing the headstay in your furler - and I must say that after 20 years - it's probably time to replace it!

The first method is to completely dissasemble the furler and re-build it as if it was a new unit.

The second method it to partially dissasemble the unit and thread a new headstay up through the foils and re-assemble the drum.

A rigger will essentially do one of these two things - but they will most likely have had some recent practice, and will have access to all the parts you will need to replace.

The trouble with the first method (full dissasembly) is that a furler that old is likely to be very reluctant to give up it's fastenings very easily. Most of the fasteners in the harken furlers are stainless and they are threaded into aluminum. Stainless + Aluminum + wet bow + 20 years = fasteners hard to remove! And - very old furlers used roll-pins in the foils instead of screws - if you want to make a rigger wince - mention dissassembling a roll-pin fastened Harken furler ... it can be very ugly. But it can be done, with lots of time and patience and penetrating lubricant (like Aerokroil or PB Blaster).

The second method avoids dissasembly of the foils, but leaves you with the tricky job of threading a new headstay wire into the foils, followed by attaching mechanical end fittings to complete your headstay.

In either case, you will need to replace, besides the wire, the stud at the lower end of the headstay wire (inside the furler), the eye at the top of the headstay, and perhaps the plastic locking cone inside the furler (on the stud). Harken furlers have a specialized stud (it's extra long and narrow) that must be used - they come in swage on and stay-loc versions.

A rigger will be able to procure these parts for you - or you may be able to mail order them - and then the replacement process is more or less the following:

measuring the old furler length
dissasembly of the drum/torque tube assembly
measuring the old headstay wire (eye to end of stud)
dissasembly of foils, cutting old wire, putting foil joints on new wire, installing new stayloc eye and stud, reassembling foils, reassembling drum/torque tube (method 1)
cutting old wire at lower end, threading new wire through already assembled foils/foil joints, installing stay-loc eye at upper end, reassembling drum/torque tube (method 2)
measuring new furler length and adjusting to match old

I would not underestimate the job, but armed with a manual that matches the furler model you own and all the right parts, you can do it. A rigger that travels and has experience with harken furlers will probably be much faster, as this is a fairly common procedure. You need to balance the cost of paying a rigger to complete the job against the cost of your time, materials, and mistakes.


I hope this answers some of your questions regarding this!!

All the best,

Jason

[Brion Toss]

Hello,
I'll just add that Harken has one of the best customer service staffs in the know universe, and that they could help with details. Try calling Jim Bourne (ext. 326). If you do have a roll pin foil, ask him about the cheaper-than-wholesale-because-we-regret-ever-doing-it-that-way "roll pin upgrade."
Fair leads,
Brion Toss