Rerigging in the slip

[seawolf]

I would like to report that the re-rigging of my 1962 Columbia with Sta-lok fittings is going well, but slowly since I decided to do it in the slip. Going up and bringing the wire down for measurement and then going back up with the new one.
I want to thank everyone that has given input and advise and answered questions I had before starting.
I would have to say, the hardest part of this job so far has been wrestling out old cotter pins out of the clevis pins at the mast head and tangs.
Who ever installed them cut them short and curlycued them completely around the clevis pin. I sat in the harness for 20 minutes trying to get one pin out. Especially with little clearance for tools between the tangs and the mast.
Is there any way you professionals or experienced salts have a way with dealing with these cotter pins that are very difficult to remove in very precarious positions.
Are there any tricks of the trade with dealing with these little buggers.
Thanks for all the help.

Just a note:
I had a helper one day that was hoisting me up and I felt sorry for him and decided to use a pin to pin measurement rather that bring the wire down for measurement and them back up, to save him a little work. And wouldn't you know it, I was short on that wire by a toggle length. It was a little discouraging as all the work I had done on my own fitted out just right.

[Stumble]

If you can get the edge of a flat-head screwdriver into the loop in the pin, usually even when they are looped a couple of light raps with a hammer will drive them through pretty easily.

[Brian Duff]

I have found the best tool for removing cotterpins (and installing them) is a pair of Dikes, or diagonal cutters.
The best ones i have ever used were made by master mechanic and had red vinyl handles with yellow trim, but I can't find them anymore and have been using Snap-On ones for years, which are Ok

my favoirte these days is snapon #388BCP then take it to a grinder and 'round off' the backside and all sharp edges to help reduce chances of damaging chrome.

With that tool I can remove 99.9% of cotterpins I encounter. To unpin a complete rig on a 40' cutter (deck level only) takes about 3 mins.

The key is to think about how to apply the leverage once you've grabed the head of the pin. Don't scratch anything!

[Brion Toss]

Hello
Tactical nuclear weapons are effective for this task. If those aren't available, you might try shaped conventional charges, or oxyacetylene at least. Seriously, in tight spaces it can help to have someone on deck loosen the wire so you can rotate the clevis for a usable angle on the cotter, then tighten the wire so the clevis doesn't spin while you are attempting to straighten the cotter. It might also be possible to loosen the wire, then use Knipex "Magic" pliers to hold the head of the clevis pin while you attack the cotter.
I also use dykes, and our rigger's pliers, and Snap-On's cotter pin tool, and whatever else is needed, but I understand that your circumstance, in the tight space under the tang, doesn't leave much room. Worst case for me is if the cotter pin legs break off nearly flush, the head breaks off when you pull on it, and the remnants are jammed in the hole. Then either a teensy drift punch will work, or you can grind/file all flush and take the pin out. Good luck in any event.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[Brian Duff]

Originally Posted by Brion Toss

Tactical nuclear weapons are effective for this task. If those aren't available, you might try shaped conventional charges, or oxyacetylene at least. Seriously

What a hoot.

Thanks, as always, Brion!

[seawolf]

Thanks for all the hints.
Unfortunately I am all out of nuclear devices and plastic explosives.
At the chain plates I was suprised to find that when I went to pull the cotters, one of them crumbled to bits in my pliers. I wasn't even able to get it out with a punch, as it was welded to the inside of the clevis. Wow, am I glad I decided to rerig. At deck level my dremel with a cutting wheel did fine work cutting the ends of the pin on the one that was frozen, and then just replaced the pin. They looked to be bronze cotters.. Anyways, I will look for the tools mentioned. I have already purchased a pair of rigger pliers from Brion's shop and they have given a good grips on the heads.

One more thing I would like to ask, this regarding the spreader tips. When removing the spreader boot I noticed on the aluminum spreader tip fitting that there is a hole going horizontally through it with a cotter pin that doesn't allow the shroud to pop out. Is this hole generally used for a serving to tie the spreader to the proper angle, or should I reinstall the cotter for this and possibly drill a couple more holes through the spreader tip to apply a serving.
The wooden spreader is very narrow at the tip, only three quarter of an inch and I do not want to drill holes if it may weaken the end of the spreader.





Fair winds, and a very merry holiday to all.
Bob

[Brian Duff]

No comment on the spreader itself. I don't think you've mentioned what size Columbia anyway.

The cotter pin to retain a slack shroud could remain, and I would leave it in place or even 'upgrade' it to a bolt or clevis pin. We normally use some sort of metal fastener, be it a captive design spreader tip, a retaining pin, or monel wire, to secure the shroud INTO the spreader tip. Then we use tarred nylon twine to secure the spreader from moving up or down via a lashing from the cable above to the cable below the spreader tip, back and forth enough to suit the loads. The lowest load should be considered as a man standing on the spreader, it will happen when someone climbs aloft.

Enjoy.

[seawolf]

Brian,
It is a 1962 Columbia 29, hull #39.
The spreader tip has a aluminum fitting that goes around the sides of the wooden spreader tip. It goes around the end and down the sides of the tip for 2 inches, and is secured by two 1/4 inch aluminum rivets that go completely through the spreader and fitting, and at the very end has a notch 1/2 inch deep to hold the shrould.

It wouldn't be difficult to install a small diameter ss machine screw in place of a cotter pin as the retainer on the end.
And I will lash it down after acheiving the proper angle. It wasn't lashed before and just held in place by tension of the shroud.
Brion
I was looking at the knipex catalog on line and didn't see anything refering to "Magic Pliers" Were you refering to the small channel lock type pliers they have?