Can mast be left standing

[Jim Madden]

I plan to do some chain plate work and want to detach all of the stays at one time. The mast is keel stepped and is 48 ft tall off of the deck. Can I leave the mast this way for the time it takes to complete the work on the chain plates and deck? Jim

[Ian McColgin]

In general this should be no problem, everything depending. I always slack my rig for winter a bit anyway and the mast will happily stay up with what amounts to nominal stay tension if you're not sailing.

A stick of that size likely has uppers and lowers. I'd recommend working a pair of chainplates at a time so you can leave good athwartships support on at all times. If the mast bows when the lowers are off, slack the uppers. If the mast tip wobbles too much when the uppers are off, try adding them with just a bit of tension on to the plates holding the lowers.

Assuming that you're working in a reasonably sheltered anchorage or at a dock, all you really need do in confine the movement a bit. On Goblin, my old 43 Alden schooner with a 65' (heel to truck) main mast I had new shrouds for both masts dangling rough cut for almost a week while I measured and made the bottom eyes.

G'luck

Ian

[Jim Madden]

Mast has only one set of speaders.

Thanks, Jim

[vouz etes ici]

Am looking to do something similar, but I am still on the hard.

I've got similar rig dimensions but will be replacing the rigging. I've got the tops swaged, but need to install the mechanical fittings (Hayn Hi-Mod) and cut the wire at the proper lengths.

I've replaced the mast step, and the chainplates etc., and I don't trust my measurements on the old rigging so I'd like to put the stick up and cut the wire to size and install the terminals. The forestay, in a RF, is the only thing that stays the same.

Do you forsee any problems with this approach and what would you recommend I use to cut the wires (largest is 3/8" diam) to length (grinder cut-off, dremel, or wirecutters?).

Thanks!

Mike L.

>what would you recommend I use to cut the wires (largest is 3/8" diam) to length (grinder cut-off, dremel, or wirecutters?).

A large set of cable cutters is ideal if you can get your hands on them but even a hacksaw will work acceptably. After you cut the cable take a file to the ends of the individual wires and clean them up a bit. You don't want to run the risk of a burr causing your hi-mod terminal to gall.

[Bob Pingel]

I just completed a full Sta-Lok re-rig on wire from 3/8" to 9/16". I found a hacksaw with good blades to be the best tool. A cable cutter will cust quicker, but the hacksaw leaves a cleaner cut.

Bob Pingel

[vouz etes ici]

Thanks for the responses... If I use a Dremel or grinder with a cut-off wheel, do I risk compromising the strength of the wire with the heat it would generate?

[Russ L]

A grinder to cut cable will change the metalurgy enough that you may have rust bleeding in/around the fitting unless you "pickle" the cut with an acid paste, available at welding supply. There is no time savings over a good old hacksaw with the best blade you can find (bimetal or hi-zoot). An improvement for the hacksaw (mentioned here earlier) is to drill a 2 X 4 (hole is wire size), slip the wire in the hole and cut it through the wood lengthwise, using the wood as a guide.

To leave a mast standing while fitting wire lengths it should be supported by four points, either uppers or lowers.. your choice. This can be accomplished utilizing strops & handy billys. In this way you can position the mast, plumb athwrtships & proper rake, in order to get the wire lengths correct.

It sounds like fun, I wish I was there to help
Cheers, Russ

[vouz etes ici]

I wish you could come!

Thanks for the suggestions. The yard will hoist it with the crane and will leave the crane in place as need be. The forestay is already done.

Its a fairly stout rig and the mast does not bend a whole lot (1974 Pearson 39). Perhaps I will do the backstay and the aft lowers first and try and position for the uppers and forward lowers.

Thanks for your advice!