Ring hitch strength reduction

[k7cej]

For the last 15 years I have used jib sheets, one piece with a loop in the middle, ring hitched onto the clew on our Outbound 44 Sequoia. For the 660 sq. ft. genoa, I use 5/8" Regatta braid with a somewhat awkward lock spliced loop; for the 350 sq. ft. staysail, 5/8" Sta-set double braid with a 4" stitched section. Both have worked fine in all conditions, although the ring hitch pulls very tight on the clew ring--it takes 15 minutes with a spike to remove it.

Since I am redoing the lines, I am curious as to the adequacy of the stitched loop. I strongly suspect the load on the stitched joint is less than 100% of the sheet tension, due to the ring hitch. But does anyone know:
1. the strength reduction for this large line ring-hitched to a 3/8" diameter ss ring?
2. the amount of load transferred into the unloaded sheet that must be supported by the stitched joint?

For what it is worth, I do not plan to lock splice the new Regatta braid lines, but plan to stitch them as well, as the old line showed a fair amount of wear at the lock splice where the line exits the splice. (I could, of course, cut the new line in two, splice eyes, and use a soft shackle to connect, and although this would be easy to remove, it seems less secure.)

All thoughts appreciated
Craig

[benz]

Sounds like you're doing a brummel and then bury splice with the Regatta? NE ropes website has directions for a tuck splice in Regatta braid (it's what I use exclusively on my boat as well) which is very easy to do, is short, and is secure.
There is no reason not to use a soft shackle to attach sheets to a jib clew--it'll be lower-profile than a ring hitch, and far easier to remove. I've not heard of a properly-made soft shackle ever flogging loose. If you're really concerned, you can also attach the sheet to the clew with a small lashing: 1/8" dyneema twine eye spliced to either loop (clew or sheet, doesn't matter), looped 'round and 'round, then finished off with a series of hitches. Lots of the fancy boats are using that now. Simple, reliable, what's not to love?
Ben

[k7cej]

Ben:
The key point is that my sheets are one piece. So the regatta braid sheets effectively become a double brummel splice with a 75' tail and 75' standing part, only one eye, which I have ring hitched to the clew. If I do the tuck splice, I will need to cut the line in two and do two eyes, which seems bulkier and has 3 joins(two eyes and a shackle or lashing). I have done the Regatta tuck splices before and although tedious, they work fine.. With two sheets and spliced eyes, I would indeed use a soft shackle for attachment.

For the Sta-set jib sheets, I am reusing the old line, so cutting it into two pieces and splicing eyes is not practical for the used line. My old approach, a stitched eye with two 60' tails, ring hitched onto the clew, seemed to work fine. I just would like to know the theoretical strength requirements of the stitched eye, ring hitched and loaded on one line at a time. In other words, what portion of the ring hitched load passes to the unloaded side?

Brion,if you are there, this seems to be your type of question!
Craig

[Brion Toss]

There is a strength reduction in any hitch, probably about 20% in this case. Not a significant loss. Ring-hitching to the clew does make for a bump, that can hang up in some cases, and can damage some sails. You also have to reeve the entire length of both legs to remove the sheet. So while it is a big improvement on bowlines, I'd much rather connect that eye -- or two spliced eyes -- with a soft shackle. Utterly secure, less snag-prone, easily removed, and it makes for options like tapered sheets.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss