strength in small AmSteel grommets

[Bott]

Hello,

I am making some grommets in 5/16 AmSteel and I wanted to check in with a few questions to make sure i have maximum strength in the end-to-end splice.

First off, I will need a 15-20" tail for the recommended burys, but I would like to have the total loop size less than 30" or so, meaning that I either have to shorten the tails or just let them override eachother at the tapers. Assuming I understand the principals of the tail bury, I see no reason why this is a problem, especially if I can be really slick and make sure that the end of each tail starts right at (or just after) the taper on the opposite one.

Also, there has been talk on here before about locked brummels in end-for-end splices. Is it just me, or is this easier than it seems? Just playing with the line doing some dry runs, it seems trivial to make the locked brummel just like a proper eye splice, if not easier becuase there isnt 40' or whatever of working end to pull through for the proper lock (as opposed to the "S" brummel variation). Picture a length of line in front of you for grommet making, label each half A and B for the relative ends and the joining portion of the spice... Just make sure that end "A" passes through the body of the "B" end, and that the end of "B" passes through the body of "A", no? Maybe I need to play with it some more to see any errors in logic there.

I tried to find any resources from our host Mr. Toss about proper locked grommets to no avail. Are there any links someone can send that demonstrates this spice for reference? I've done many eyes in Dynex/AmSteel before, I just want to make sure that my intuition is actually in line with reality.

Thanks,
-Eric

[matt the rigger]

I always use a Brummel lock on grommets. Mostly because of the lack of bury in the tapered end. A grommet should be as strong as any other 12 strand splice.

[Brion Toss]

Originally Posted by Bott

Picture a length of line in front of you for grommet making, label each half A and B for the relative ends and the joining portion of the spice... Just make sure that end "A" passes through the body of the "B" end, and that the end of "B" passes through the body of "A", no? Maybe I need to play with it some more to see any errors in logic there.

Hello,
It's true that the Brummel will be locked by the method you describe; the problem is it will only be locked of the load comes on the ends. Try it. If you pull the ends away from each other, the Brummel will lock right up. But if you pull on the standing parts (in this case, the sides of the grommet adjacent to the Brummel) it slides right apart.
This topology was a real puzzle for me, and one of the happiest breakthroughs of my little existence. The solution is in Book 5, and involves unbraiding and rebraiding one of the tails. With a short grommet, the locked Brummel is crucial, as the tails just don't add a reassuring amount of friction.
You are right on about having the tails overlap, with the ideal being complementary tapers, for constant diameter.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

[Bott]

Could you elaborate on what "Book 5" is? My girlfriend works at a nautical bookstore here in Seattle, and we couldn't find anything of yours that looked like the ticket.

And of course I poured through Apprentice looking for the key...

edit: answered my own question with a little googlin' : http://www.briontoss.com/catalog/books.html