Reefer extrusion bearing replacement

[dodger]

I have a Harken II reefer, size unit 0, about 1990. The boat is a '84 Pearson 34 with masthead rigged Isomat spars. It has always been impossibly hard to reef while close hauled above 10 knots true. Two riggers have looked at it and found no reason for it. Many calls to Harken also. Both swivels are free, foil rotates freely under no load, the reefer line pulls at the right angle, etc.

When I bought it 8 years ago, the upper swivel was 14" below the top of the foil and the pull angle was 30 degrees to the mast, instead of 10-12degrees. When I sighted up the headstay with moderate wind, the foil was deformed sharply at the swivel (goes back to straight at rest). I fraised the swivel and fixed the pull angle the first year but it didn't help much. I am guessing the 20 years of grinding the foil and or the nearest bearing into the 9/32" 1x19 cable, with slack headstay and a proper or high halyard tension may have created a lot of damage.

Is there a practical way to break the top swage, pull the headstay down enough to undo/assess/replace the upper most bearing? Also assess if the stay is galled. Then re-swage it without throwing the stay away and or having to dissassemble each foil connector.

Thanks so much for running a great forum.

[Brian Duff]

No, there is not.

if you don't mind loosing some headstay length you could cut off the swage eye from top, then install a long stalok eye mechanical fitting to get the length back.

That said, a 20yr old stay inside a furler should be relpaced. The cost will be under $400 for a complete stay with top and bottom fittings of that size.

[Brion Toss]

Hello,
I'm with Brian on this one -- replace the wire. While the foil is down you can take a good look at everything, not just the top bearing. You can also make sure that you don't have a "recall toggle" at the bottom end (Harken will replace it for free). And if you have roll-pin connections you might want to consider an upgrade. Oh, and the kind of deflection you are talking about does not bode well for the masthead toggle, the masthead itself, or the bottom toggle and the stem fitting. Time for a very close look.
By the by, other ease-of-furling factors include tune, efficiency of lead block sheaves, whether you have a ratchet block at the aft end, and where that block is mounted.
I am sure you are now aware of this, but for the sake of others reading this I'll note that, as with any machine, good furlers need good installation to be trouble-free.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss