Securing Turnbuckles
 

On one of Brion's DVD's, he talks about using a "c" made from welding rod as opposed to cotter pins to secure rigging turnbuckles. I'm not sure I understand from the description how to do this. It sounds like a great idea. The beauty of it seems to be that you wouldn't have to tape over the turnbuckles to prevent snagging a sail.

Can someone please help me understand what's required and how to do this? A picture or two would be great.

--Smitty

While I myself do not follow the practice of using tig rod to pin turnbuckles... I know you can use the same tools and techniques as when working with cotter pins. Perhaps a pair of pliers would assist a set of dikes to complete the task. Tune the rig, hold a piece of rod up across both cotter pin holes and judge the length needed. Cut and then bend (pliers) one 90* bend leaving the short leg something like 8:1 for diameter of tig rod, I suppose. hole the thing up again, judge the position of the next bend and use those pliers stick your c in the two holes and use the dikes, or pliers or whatever, to roll the end up into the body of the turnbuckle. I suppose I could do that, but then I’d have to carry a rod box in addition to a cotter pin box, because I’d still need those. Less of them.


... but anyway that’s about as much as I'll say about something I haven't actually tried. ( IIRC :) )

Thanks for the reply. I got most of that. What I don't understand is what keeps the body of the turnbuckle from backing off? I see how this would prevent the studs from turning, but what secures the body.

I really like the fact that this technique would free me from taping the turnbuckles to protect the sails from snagging on the cotter.

--Smitty

Details
 

Hi there,
You'll see illustrations for the technique on page 243 of the Apprentice. 3/32" TIG, either type 316 stainless or (my preference) silicon bronze, works best for 1/2" & 5/8" turnbuckles.
The barrel doesn't back off because the vertical portion of the rod crosses the central bar.
And yes, it is a lovely alternative to cotter pins for this application, as it needs no tape. Done neatly -- and some practice is required here -- it also looks sleek. For athwartships cotter holes, put the TIG in from outboard, because the vertical part is then what you see from the dock. For fore-and-aft holes, put them in from aft, because you'll see the vertical part from the cockpit. Looks better. But work on making sharp, neat, 90 degree turns.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

Thanks for the help. You're correct the illustrations in the book made it very clear. Somehow, I missed this section in the book. I set up my shrouds using this technique this afternoon. I like it a lot better than cotter pins.

Thanks again
Smitty