I originally wanted to call this section "Pieces of string too short to save", after the punch line of a Maine story about a notable packrat, who had a box in his attic with that label on it. The idea is that you don't throw things away just because there's no apparent use for them. In this context, there are a whole bunch of items that we don't sell, and ideas that aren't in any of our books or tapes, and even things that have nothing to do with rigging at all, but are too nifty or unusual or odd to ignore. Back to Fairleads Index
August 1998

   To start off this month's Fair Leads, here's a "this-has-been-bugging
-me-for-twenty-some-years-and- some-amateur-figured-it- out-without-apparent-effort" item. An ingenious cruiser by the name of Les Parsons wanted to run his reef lines and outhaul forward along the boom, all of them to a winch. He's the kind of cost-conscious (read: miserly) cruiser who wasn't about to buy two winches, which meant he had to lead all three lines to one winch, and a boom gets really crowded when you get that many lines going down one side -- where do you put the cleats? How can you get a fair lead to the winch for all three? And how can you fit in stoppers if you use them? In the past, I've either talked the client into buying two winches, and using both sides of the boom, or played around with leads, juggled stopper positions, and given the heaviest-loaded lines priority for fair lead.

   But Les literally sidestepped all that, running the outhaul and one reef down one side of the boom, the other reef down the other, and when he needs the second reef, he leads it in a long spiral under the boom, to the winch. All the lines run internally, and the trick is to position the "off" side exit far enough aft that the line exits at a moderate downward angle, so it doesn't chafe on the exit excessively. For smoother action it were better to install a fairlead or small cheek block ahead of the exit. And if you need a stopper, install it between the exit and the fairlead.

   Another option would be to bring the line out under the boom, for a gentler spiral, and easier access to the stopper. And of course, the setup could be adapted for even more lines, like a topping lift or a third reef. Just be sure to space the exits well apart, both lengthwise and radially, so you don't weaken the boom.

   This month's Cool Tool is a "laminate trimmer", a sort of mini-router that I'm sure many people actually use for trimming laminate. I never will, but I do use it a lot for things like cutting holes in masts and booms for line exits, lengthening sail track gates, and cutting slots for new mastheads. It also works as a die grinder, for doing things like shaving excess meat off tangs and chainplates (Warning: see the "Apprentice" for information on proper scantlings, so you don't take too much meat off), and custom-shaping hardware. All those jobs can be done with burrs, but with a thin cutoff wheel chucked up, you can also cut bar stock, or even wire rope, firmly seized or taped on either side of the cut.

   Now, bear in mind that all of these jobs are the kind of things that the tool's manual tells you never to use the tool for. It's a laminate trimmer; if you really need a die grinder, buy a die grinder, and if you really need a router, buy a router. Also bear in mind that these things rev at about 25,000 rpm, so it's not exactly a child's toy, even for its intended use. Yes, these are the nervous reservations of someone living in a litigious society who is recommending potentially dangerous stuff. So if you use this wonderful, versatile tool the way I do, do so responsibly, carefully, and advisedly. Earplugs and safety glasses are mandatory, and even then, don't put any part of yourself in the plane of the tool's rotation. Ever.

   That said, you can find laminate trimmers at good hardware stores. I got mine from Sear's for under $100, with a 2-year warranty, which I have probably thoroughly voided. My favorite burrs are the carbide ones that Snap-On sells, separate ones for aluminum and stainless, and in a variety of shapes. You'll also need to get an adapter collet to fit a cutoff wheel.

   And finally for this month, when you go to get safety glasses for use with your trimmer or other tools, get the very best: Fectoids. They're frameless, wraparound beauties with telescoping earpieces, to fit all heads. They also feature a very durable anti-fog coating, and are very hard to scratch, so no more squinting to see past your glasses. And you can replace the lenses, or switch them from regular to tinted, or even to mirrored.

   We buy our Fectoids from Sherril, Inc., an arborist supplier. Call them at 1-800-525-8873.

   Fair leads,

      Brion Toss


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Last modified: August 31, 1998