Thread: toggle strength
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Old 03-26-2012, 05:56 AM
allene allene is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benz View Post
I've always loved smart people. I asked a physicist once to work out a the measurements of a gaff sail of 300 sq ft following the ratios in the Gaff Rig Handbook. I expected him to take a week or so......he did it right there on a torn-off sheet of notebook paper using equations he had memorized. I kept the paper for a souvenir, I was so impressed. Sounds like Allen could of done it in his head.
Anyhow, my 7/16" regatta braid halyards are nowhere near strong enough, it seems, to break a 1/2" wooden toggle, and the toggles I'm turning are a little fatter than that. Also they're Rosewood and Cocobolo, so they're lots denser and harder than oak or teak. I'll probably go with some 5/8" bronze rod pieces I have left from another project for really heavy-duty loads, but it seems that for my halyards wood'll be fine. Easier to undo a toggle on an icy dark line with gloves on than most shackles.
Love to hear more about the math of it and testing.
Ben
Just be sure to remember that a lot of the strength comes from the way the line is arranged, the semi-knot. Not sure of your setup but I know that I could not get 7/16 line to pull the loop through the hole in a headboard. It is even difficult with my 5/32 Amsteel because I did both a brummel and a lock stitch and the lock stitch is too far away from the toggle and tends to interfere with the loop. I will probably cut it all off and move the lock stitch to the inch or so closest to the eye.
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