I don't see any way that adding a little dangle block will reduce chafe at the reefed clew. It just makes it harder to set the clew up firmly enough.
There is a paradoxical trick that not only reduces possible chafe but also makes for a cleaner set at the clew: Have both parts of the reefing clew lines start from the same side of the boom. The standing part should be a little ahead of the boom's cheekblock to reduce fouling when the sail is struck. The net of the two leads should be about 45 degree down angle. The line goes up, through the cringle, and flops loosely over the leach when not in use. The sail can be reefed on either tack but (assuming normal rig working from the mast) it's best to have the strap and block on the starboard side and to usually reef hove-to on the starboard tack. But even on port tack, the bunt of the sail abaft the reef clew will flop aside as you tighten up for a clean set. Much nicer than having the two parts of the reef clew line embrace the sail's bunt.
On my old schooners where I handled setting, striking and reefing from the starboard side of the masts, I ran the clew lines along the booms to within reach of my stance by the mast. The topping lift's fall came readily to hand cleated to the mast just above the halyard's cleat. I led the reefing tack pendents down on the starboard side and never found the dangling line a problem. Up against the mast there puts them in relativly still air anyway. I just belayed them to a cleat below the gooseneck off-set a little to starboard. I made that cleat large enough to take all three reefs in order.
On my catboat, all the lines lead to the cockpit. I have two quarter lifts rather than one topping lift, and to manage the 300# boom I have 4:1 on each lift. But the principle is the same that one person can heave-to and reef in safety and security.
Lazy jacks (I actually combine lifts with jacks but that's another matter) help much.
G'luck
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