seized pistons spinnaker pole
 

Hey guys:

The piston-type connectors on each end of the spinnaker pole are jammed. (The previous owner did it, not me.) I have been told to "make sure I don't use the wrong lubricant".

What is the correct way to get them working freely? Do I have to buy new end fittings?

thanks again

NV

I don't know what "wrong lubricant" means. Assuming it's just siezed, not bent, I'd start with some good penetrating oil. Then maybe some heat and a little tapping and pulling on the end that sticks out to hold the eye the trip line attaches to. Once it's moving easily and cleaned out, you might keep it free with anhydrous lanolin, lithium grease or even Mystery Oil. But, you know, kerosene or motor oil or most anything will do it.

If you can get some good shark oil . . .

G'luck

forespar composite ends are plastic so be sure the oils you use are plastic safe.

some other pole ends have plastic sleeves on the piston.

T-9 is a safe lube for metal parts near plastic

Thanks all.

Very helpful. I went to Forespar site. They say to flush the fittings with fresh water after exposure to salt water. They also say lubricant is a bad idea as it may attract dirt, BUT, they do not say how to free a stuck piston.

I found another site which said to use vinegar. Stick the pole end in a pail of vinegar and let it sit over night, then try to work it free. So thats what I will try.

I think the key is to get it working with any kind of solvent/lubricant then rinse the whole thing really well. I will let you know how it worked out.

Thanks again

NV

What I did
 

When I had the same problem I removed the end fitting from the pole and soaked it overnight in a 1:2 vinegar / water solution and then flushed it for quite a while with fresh water.

Worked like a charm. If this doesn't work then make sure there isn't any visible damage or suspect wear on the pin (in case a worn-in ridge or similar is hanging up on a softer plastic bit).

I've found that most things on boats that are exposed to the elements work better with fresh water washes than with any kind of lube. The exceptions on our boat are masthead sheaves that seem to like lanolin grease and the hydraulic backstay cylinder that swoons over a wipe with an oiled rag.

p.s. - be careful with the pin. If yours is spring loaded like mine it will smash or remove a finger pretty easily if inadvertently triggered.

good stuff ... maybe we should be keeping vinegar in the shop ?

Using vinegar to clean almost anything exposed to salt water works very well. Particularly when the problem area is small hard to get too parts like springs, or internal components. I would assume any acid would work, but the advantage of vinegar is that it is relatively cheap, easy to find, and mild enough that it won't etch metal or attack components.

Just ask any avid SCUBA diver about rincing equipment with the stuff.

Distilled white vinegar is my initial cleaning solution of choice. It works pretty well, especially if you have time to soak things. 1 and 2 gallon jugs of the stuff are available at most warehouse stores.

Not a rigging application, but if shower heads start to clog up from mineral deposits an overnight soak will return them to like-new condition.

I soaked rags in vinegar and wrapped them around salt-caked turnbuckles for several hours. A fresh water flush cleaned everything off, allowing them to be backed off, further cleaned, lubed, and reassembled.

Are there issues with acid and stainless?

Okay Okay, I put Vinegar on our order list !

A bit of a thread hijack, but while some high streingth acids can etch or destroy stainless, most SS cleaners are a dilute form of acid. In my experience, I have never seen vinager have any effect other than help remove corrosion and salt residue, but a chemist would have to be the one to discuss wether is has any corrosive effect.

So I think the trick is to just make sure the muratic stuff stays away and you will be fine.