Making a "loupe"
 

companies are selling spectra loops that they are calling 'Loupes' to be used to secure blocks to padeyes instead of using shackles or webbing loops. I don't believe that these are spliced- I think that they are made by looping strands of spectra around and around a form.

I just made one of my own by using a piece of Sampson coated single brade. I first made a loop, then made a locked Brummel, then buried each end till it was a good ways around the loop - ends were tapered over 2-3 inches or so. Then did a bit of stitching to secure it when not under load.

The diameter of the loop I made was about 7 inches.

Is there any reason why this loop would be significantly less strong than the material it's made from? Any reason why I shouldn't use this thing in a highly loaded application - like securing a Spinnaker turning block?

It's a whole lot cheaper than the made up 'loupes' and can be made in any size required though I wouldn't think any smaller than 6-7 inches diameter would allow enough bury.

Sounds like you are describing a high-mod grommet as demonstrated in Brion's splicing book. I haven't been able to disassemble a "loup" but I believe these are actually strops with a cover which differs a bit from a grommet and allows for a smaller diameter. I have experimented a bit with a technique for making these but haven't come up with one I'm completely satisfied with. As for home-made high mod grommets - I've used them on occasion and have always been satisfied with the result.

modern selvagees and lashings
 

When I first read about Loups, I thought, "Aha, a modern selvagee with a cover!". I'm curious if anyone here has had experience using modern HM line in traditional siezings and lashings.
I've seen plain old nylon seine twine lashings perform remarkably on traditional boats (when correctly applied); why not similar lashings in modern smallstuffs on modern boats?
Whether it's making a grommet/Loup or applying a seizing/lashing, operator skill and experience is important. I get the impression that pre-made solutions like the Loup are out there because, while the materials are improving, some of these traditional skills are vanishing.

I have been using the 1.75 mm Samson Dyneema single braid for lashings and seizing for some time now, and find that the solution is excellent where elimination of stainless hardware is desired, or hardware not available for the application. I have found it is important to install a complete brummel and bury to make any eye or double bury with stitching for end to ends connections, as the stuff is slippery and knots or regular bury will slip right out.
I will be using this material next month for the structural seizing binding the pair of shrouds each side on a gaffer we are working on, and the deadeye into the spliced eyes on the wire, and will let you all know how it works out.

I think the harken loupes made by Yale are indeed a many wraps of small stuff and that you could make your own, as I have been doing. they are reported to get stronger with use as the strands come to bear even load through cyclic loading.

" I first made a loop, then made a locked Brummel, then buried each end till it was a good ways around the loop - ends were tapered over 2-3 inches or so. Then did a bit of stitching to secure it when not under load."

maybe I am way behind the times, but I haven't figured out yet how to put a locked brummel into a grommet, whatís the secret ?

This may be it...
 

The text accompanying these graphics is awful. But if you look through it a few times you'll figure it out. http://www.neropes.com/SPL_12Strand_...ceBrummel.aspx The goal is to pull out B, then A, rather than the reverse, so your tail bury is going into the leg of the loop. (I haven't done this splice, but I can see the theory. The pass-throughs may need to be reversed.)

This splice should work in any single braid, and I think someone could figure out how to cover it.

The new england ropes drawings were very good super simple and the splice makes sense finally.
thanks
Jake

It's impossible
 

Hi Brian,
Yes, it's a wonderful renaissance of ropework we are seeing now, though of course there's a bit of a learning curve with the new materials. Please do be in touch about your gaffer project!


A dear friend of mine regretfully informed me that my search for a locked Brummel in a grommet was doomed to failure. He explained that it was topologically impossible, as the load always came onto the wrong parts, so the Brummel would come undone. So when I figured out how to do it, and gave him a finished sample, he spent a couple of sleepless nights trying to figure it out. He finally came back into the shop, red-eyed and haggard, and said, "Alright, show me how you did it."
It's in the splicing handbook.
Fair leads,
Brion

What's a grommet for?
 

Hi Guys,
I have been following this thread with interest and have even had the book open looking at HM grommets, but I have to come clean.
When I have struggled to make one of these loops how and where would I use it to replace expensive and heavy shackles?
AND would I have to make it in situ?

Looking forward to some help here.

Glynn

I believe the more recent harken catalog show several in use.

loupes
 

Thanks Guys ,
It 's all clearer now, but I think I'll pass on these for a while .I'm still struggling with an eye splice in braid on braid.

Glynn

Which book exactly?
"Working Rope #1"? #2?
"Complete Riggers Apprentice"?
Also, are your books available outside of Washington?
I would love to be able to thumb through them to make sure I buy the right one(s).
Anyplace near Annapolis, MD?
Thanks,
-M

Some follow up
 

Brian, I have had good results splicing both the Dyneema flat twines and 3mm Dyneema with a buried tail McDonald Brummel as shown in Brions book.

We have designed our own fittings and had to come to the reality that the outer cheeks where the standing part of the rope goes around had to be a little shallower than a traditional block. This made it possible to get the brummel eye over the the cheeks and into place. We made the cheeks longer to compensate the angle of the splice and get a fairer lead. I learned you need to take the splice and really yank on it to open it up before you attempt to get it over the fitting.

We are just now coming out with new deadeyes that you can use on both ends of a shroud or backstay.

Please check us out at http://www.colligomarine.com/ go to the synthetic rigging link.

I want to get some of this new stuff to Brion to work on and get his feedback.

Back to the future.

Jack, Colligo marine

som confusion
 

Jack,
I have also had great fun splicing all sizes of all lines, and have now found that NO line is impossible to splice, with all the variations out there.

What I have not been able to figure out yet is a LOCKED BRUMMEL with a continous loop of line (grommet). Brion has said it is in his new Splicing Handbook, but what fun I have been having trying to figure it out myself, inverting flipping and tucking till the wee hours of the morning...

I guess soon I might just buy the book, cause it is not comming to me !

Loupe strength
 

Hello everyone,

One question that has been bugging me is the longevity or strength of the Loupe or HM grommet. In most all literature, they specify 8x the line diameter bend radius. I imagine that this spec is for running rigging, but it makes me question what kind of trade-off is there by using a Loupe around a pad eye? Any strength degradation? Would this be a weak point in the setup, or do you just go up a line size to take care of it....

Just wondering...

Jim

OOH OOH!!! I know!!! I remember when I took the advanced splicing class Brion sent us home one night with homework- see if you can figure out how to splice a locking brummell into a grommet. I was camping at Ft. Worden State Park that night and spent a while next to the fire trying to figure out how to do it....then it dawned on me. I had to cheat, but I figured out a way to do it.

I remember coming in the next day excited to share what I'd done. As a matter of fact, I wrote down Brion's response, because I didn't want to forget it! :D

Trust me, get the splicing book. It's well worth it even if it were JUST for this one tiny tid-bit.

love
nick