Finishing the locked Brummel
 

Hello all,
I hope you are not getting tired of my questions regarding the Brummel, but I want to make sure I have it right.
I have completed a locked brummel eye around a solid thimble. Using the naked spectra eye splice on Brion's DVD. When burying the tail, Brion mentions to start the bury a couple of inches from the brummel knot. I actually started my bury an inch or so from the knot.
This was done on 1/4" amsteel blue
Question:
After my bury, the small space from the knot and where the tail entered the standing part is comprised of the full diameter of the standing part and a full diameter of the tail from the knot, allowing for a small eye to be opened up if not whipped or served.
Since the bury is coming from a knot and not just burying into itself, I guess this can not be helped.
I just want to make sure it was done right.
I will be serving or whipping the section below the thimble down past where the tail goes into the standing part.
I would like to send a couple of photos for review, if someone would be kind enough to explain how to do this on this site.
All help appreciated. Thanks.
Bob

Bury
 

I typically enter my bury a diameter or so down from the brummel. A close as I can practically get into undisturbed braid.

If you entered an inch or so down, I could see that you have two little parallel sections of cordage. The only risk I see is that this little loop cold get snagged and pull out the bury.

In the future, I'd enter the bury closer. For now, I would through a little frapped whipping over the little loop to keep it closed.

I typically put a diameter wide whipping right below the entry point. I have seen some riggers stitch axially along the bury, some even with a sewing machine. I like the little whiping just to keep curious fingers from pulling out the bury when unloaded.

Bob

You can imagine my embarassment
 

Hi again,
Did I really say a couple of inches? If so, oops. What I do now, at least, is look at the length of the brummel, to see how the rope curves naturally; it will want to take the same curve as it re-enters the rope for the bury. Start the bury too close, and you get a hard spot. Too far away and you get that open eye.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

PS,
A couple of inches? Really?

Brummel
 

Brion,
In the field book #5 under bonus splice figure #14 your instructions state start bury right below the brummel.
It was in the splicing video in the naked spectra eye splice that you mentioned run the wand up to the brummel, a couple of inches is fine.
The practice is helping but,
My main difficulties is getting the line through the inverted hockles. I seem to distort the line quite a bit to get this through.
In the video it seems the line practically slides right up and through with hardly a bother. Maybe the spectra is a little looser weave than the Amsteel Blue?
Thanks again everyone for the help. Its getting fun.
Fair winds.
Bob

Brummel
 

Brion,
In the field book #5 under bonus splice figure #14 your instructions state start bury right below the brummel.
It was in the splicing video in the naked spectra eye splice that you mentioned run the wand up to the brummel, a couple of inches is fine.
The practice is helping but,
My main difficulties is getting the line through the inverted hockles. I seem to distort the line quite a bit to get this through.
In the video it seems the line practically slides right up and through with hardly a bother. Maybe the spectra is a little looser weave than the Amsteel Blue?
Thanks again everyone for the help. Its getting fun.
Fair winds.
Bob

Brummel
 

Bob,
Thanks again for your reply and help.
I will put a whipping on that part of the splice.
What would be the best size of line and material since this will be out in the sun.
Any treatment over the whipping to protect from chafe/UV
All I have now is some sail twine and that is probably not good for this whipping/serving type of application.
Thanks again. You guys are great.
Fair Winds.
Bob

Hockles
 

Hi again,
First, be sure that you are passing the eye through the hockle in the same direction that the end went through. Otherwise you'll get an extra-hockled hockle.
For stiffer line, I pass a length of stout twine up through the hockle, through the eye, then back down through the hockle, and then use the twine to pull the eye through. Massaging as it goes helps, as does using a fid to open up the hockle beforehand.
As for the twine type, plain ol' waxed sail twine is as good as it gets.
Keep at it!
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

Hockles
 

Hello Brion,
Thanks for your last post.
I will try your advise on the next practice eyes I do.
I want to have it down before I assemble the life lines.
I have round bronze thimbles for the lashing ends that I found through Duckworks..
I was unable to find stainless ones.

Do you have a source for the stainless round sail thimbles for 1/4" line?
Thanks again for the great service your website provides.
Fair Winds.
Bob

Bronze
 

Hi again,
Bronze turns green, but is that a problem? I've seen round stainless thimbles, but rarely. Might try a sailmaker, or Toplicht.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss

Bronze and tips
 

Hello Brion,
I do not see a problem using the bronze. One of the thimbles on the bow end will be close to the deck so it will get its share of salt water. Green is no problem, I.m Irish!
Your tip on using string to bring the line in through the hockles worked great and also some of the problems I was experiencing had to do with trying to run the line in through the wrong side of the hockle creating another. Thanks for the tips. I am having fun now.
One Question:
I thought I measured well eye to eye for my lines. Each line required two splices, so I added 18" for each bury and 4inches each for the eyes to the total length.
I still came up about 5 inches short on each line for the completed span. Luckily this means only a longer lashing, but not as tidy as I had wished.
Did I miss something on the calculation?

I would like to share some pictures if you think anyone would be interested in seeing the completed lifelines installed.
What is the procedure?
Again, my appreciation for all the help and a great site.
Bob